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New From Piedmont: Alta Langa Cheese

by Luke Gangi-Wellman on July 7, 2023

Fields of rolling green studded with famous grapes, hidden truffles, and a rich ecosystem of traditional and regenerative agriculture create a verdant backdrop for Caseificio dell’Alta Langa (Alta Langa Dairy). This family owned and operated dairy has been producing mixed milk cheeses from their cows, goats, and sheep since 1880, for 5 generations. Deeply rooted in the culinary traditions of Piedmont, Italy, they are fearless innovators and have been since their inception.

Robiola Bosina

Alta Langa is not new to our cheese case at Caputo’s. We’re proud long time fans and supporters and have even called out their Robiola Bosina as the perfect One Cheese Cheese-Board in the past. Their attention to detail, care for animals, and respect for tradition have won accolades in both international awards and in our hearts.

Blu di Langa

When we were presented with an opportunity to import and showcase more of their art, er, cheese (it’s both), we couldn’t have been more honored. From a fresh goat toma, to a mixed milk blue, and their adorable and unique small-format treasures, the selection from Alta Langa has range.

Join us in enjoying these beautiful representations of what cheese can be when it’s made with care and responsibility.

In the words of Matt Caputo, we’re “SO EXCITED!!!”

An Obsessive Story of Wild Cacao

by Luke Gangi-Wellman on June 22, 2023

Every day, Caputo’s strives to move the craft food needle in meaningful ways. When we are able to see this impact play out on a global scale, it fills our hearts with pride. Chocolate has been an avenue for us to explore our impact from the very beginning, and we’re excited to see and share the ways that it has grown. Our wild cacao series (Juruá by Luisa Abram, Tranquilidad by Ritual) is a labor of love, a story of adventure, and has many tales to tell behind the bars.

Follow Luisa Abram on this visual journey of wild tree to bar chocolate

Rowan Jacobsen is a renowned American food writer and journalist who has been exploring, documenting, and moving the craft food needle in his own myriad of ways for years. His explicit focus on documentary storytelling and avoidance of instruction or cookbook style explanation has set him apart from the rest. The author of eight books, his writing has also been featured in The New York Times, Newsweek, Food & Wine, Smithsonian, Scientific American, Audubon, Best American Science & Nature Writing, and Best Food Writing collections. He has also appeared on CBS, NBC, and NPR as an expert guest. All that without a mention of his multiple James Beard Awards.

When he puts his mind to a project, we trust the story will be told in full. When we learned he was making a multi-episode series on the history of wild chocolate, we were excited to see what we had left to learn.

Obsessions: Wild Chocolate is Rowan Jacobsen’s deep dive into the recent history of craft chocolate. From indigenous communities deep in the Amazon rainforest to small shops trying to pave the way for a new market, Jacobsen does an exceptional job painting all the players in this plot. Our very own Matt Caputo is good friends with Rowan, and was featured on Episode 4: The Awakening in a discussion of how the craft chocolate revolution swept our country.

Every gold rush brings winners and losers, and the craft chocolate revolution was no different. A lot of dinosaurs fell by the wayside, too slow to react to the shift in taste, and a few nimble players rushed in to fill the gap. Most surprising of all was the small deli in Salt Lake City that came out of nowhere to become the ultimate champion of wild chocolate.

 

– Rowan Jacobsen

As the story goes deeper, we weren’t surprised, but quite delighted to learn that Rowan had teamed up with another friend of Caputo’s – Volker Lehmann. Volker has been hunting for wild and rare cacao for years, and his journeys have brought him to remote, dangerous, and unique places. He left his home in Germany for Bolivia in the early 2000s and hasn’t looked back since. One of the kings of wild cacao cultivation, he is one of the main players behind our Wild Tranquilidad chocolate bar and has been working to protect this rare cacao since its identification back in 2014.

With their powers combined, Rowan and Volker tell a compelling story of drugs, morality, and the fight to protect wild cacao. The eight episode series covers all corners of the globe and includes important conversations with everyone from farmers deep in the jungle to consumers appreciating this now closely protected art. We’re proud to be a small part of the chocolate revolution, and we’re excited to share this resource with you – our beautiful and curious friends.

Listen to Volker and Rowan to learn about our mission around wild cacao (including Caputo’s Wild Juruá bar by Luisa Abram) in the iHeart Radio podcast OBSESSIONS: Wild Chocolate!

Caputo’s + Ritual: Fighting for Wild Tranquilidad

by Matt Caputo on May 1, 2023

The modern US food system is crushing craftsmanship, sustainability, biodiversity and economic justice.

For years, I have known Caputo’s mission in a broad, eternal sense: “Fight to preserve the food traditions of our ancestors.” However, with the untimely death of my best friend, mentor, and hero, Tony Caputo (aka my dad), it sunk in that our time on Earth is so very limited. I realized we need a way to ensure we have tangible victories while we pursue what is sure to be an eternal fight – enter the Caputo’s Preservation Program (CPP).

As part of Caputo’s Preservation Program we are proud to announce a partnership between Caputo’s Market & Deli, Hacienda Tranquilidad (Baures, Bolivia), and Ritual Chocolate (Heber, Utah). Namely, a chocolate bar made from rare wild cacao.

The Caputo’s Wild Tranquilidad bar started almost a decade ago when Caputo’s donated money on behalf of an agronomist who had discovered something very special. The tests we sponsored provided a USDA Genetic Profile proving Tranquilidad’s samples were a previously undiscovered type of cacao, “Beniano.”

Even before the tests had confirmed it, Tranquilidad’s cacao had become famous being referred to as Cru Sauvage, Cacao Sylvestre, Boliviano, to name a few. The agronomist, Volker Lehmann, bought land in the area and dedicated his life to building a business that would preserve this cacao. Despite the fame and insanely delicious, one of a kind cacao, Tranquilidad has faced bankruptcy, competitors counterfeiting his cacao, fires, drought, floods and more. Long story short, even in the world of fancy chocolate not enough money flows back to the farmer. 

Caputo’s has arranged for Ritual to buy Tranquilidad’s genetically pure Beniano and pay top dollar directly to Tranquilidad with no intermediaries. Ritual uses these jewels of the jungle to make chocolate bars to Caputo’s specifications. After countless tests and tweaks to almost every step in the chocolate making process, Ritual Chocolate proves their mastery with one of the best tasting dark chocolate bars of all time. Caputo’s then gives a full dollar to Tranquilidad for every 60g chocolate bar sold. This represents an additional $7.60 per pound of chocolate sold and is many multiples more than a farmer would receive when selling cacao.

Caputo’s believes that Capitalism can actually be a wonderful system for positive change when all stakeholders in the supply chain share equally in the rewards. We know our community of food lovers will vote with their purchases and join us in blazing a trail to a food system that preserves biodiversity and sustainable agriculture.

 

#deliciousdaysahead

Listen to Volker take James Beard award winning author and journalist Rowan Jacobsen into the rainforest, and learn about our mission around wild cacao (including Caputo’s Wild Juruá bar by Luisa Abram) in the iHeart Radio podcast OBSESSIONS: Wild Chocolate!

Pasta: 7 Deadly Sins to Avoid

by Adrianna Pachelli on February 17, 2020

Pasta. It’s one of the most generic terms used to refer to an expansive, regionally specific, and centuries’ long part of regional Italian food culture. That said, even the most ambiguous of terms is enough to elicit sighs of fondness for one of our favorite starches. From early childhood to poor college life and beyond into adulthood, pasta is one food we all enjoy. In theory, it’s relatively quick and easy to make, inexpensive, and I can’t think of one single person who doesn’t enjoy it. That said, there are just a few tips to be aware of when buying and preparing that will enhance both flavor and texture and, ultimately, just make life more delicious. Yes, there is a right way to make pasta and a wrong way. The right way will make your meal memorable and satisfying, the wrong way is akin to mortal kitchen sin, at least for us. The next time you find yourself craving a plate of pasta, keep these in mind:

 

Bronze Cut Pasta

Bronze Cut Pasta

Teflon Cut Pasta

Teflon Cut Pasta

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fresh isn’t best – seek out pasta extruded from bronze dies

There’s a strange myth going around that fresh pasta far exceeds air dried. Not so, dear friends. The vast majority of regions in Italy prefer air dried. Unless you’re making something usually made by hand rather than extruded through a machine like cavatelli or a filled pasta, chances are, a quality air dried pasta will better suit your needs (and desires). There are two materials used most often to extrude some of our favorite shapes of pasta: bronze and Teflon. While Teflon is more efficient and easier, the resulting pasta is slippery and lifeless. While this may be ideal for kindergarten slurping, that slipperiness also leaves behind whichever amazing sauce you’re about to make.

Bronze dies are the stuff of both historical and present day artisans, and for good reason. When artisan pasta makers use a bronze die to extrude their pasta (family-run Martelli in Lari, Italy, for example), the end result is well worth the extra time. On a microscopic level, bronze dies extrude a pasta that is rougher with far more surface area for sauce to cling to. These days, when bronze dies are used, artisans are often using higher quality durum semolina that will offer a toothsome bite, a lovely wheat flavor, and an all around better, tastier end product.

Use a big pot, lots of water, and liberal salt

Of all the pasta sins that exist, I beg you to use your biggest pot rather than attempt to minimize your dish load. A large, roomy pot of boiling water gives each cut room to absorb the necessary amount of water at an even rate and will prevent noodles from sticking together. Salted water helps season the main component of your meal without over-seasoning and using too much salt in the finished product AND it aids in even cooking.

grating-barely-legal-over-bronze-cut-spaghetti-smFor the love of pasta – No. Oil. 

There’s no faster way to hurt our feelings than to add oil to your pasta water. Adding oil to your water will indeed help keep noodles separated, but it will also ensure your sauce won’t have any way to cling and adhere to your noodle. Added oil would make cooking uneven and coat the pasta in a film, causing every possible drop of sauce to slip away between your plate and mouth. Don’t want your noodles to stick together? Here’s how to avoid it – use that giant pot in your pantry (I know you’ve got one), fight the urge to add oil, and don’t rinse with cold water (see below).

Pay close attention & don’t rinse

While it likely goes without saying, pasta should not be ignored while cooking. In those last minutes of time in boiling water, consider yourself married to that pot of cooking pasta. That fine line between true al dente and bloated, overcooked pasta is impossible to recover from. We cook pasta to al dente so it can continue to cook and finish cooking while being tossed with sauce. Pull your pasta from the water at a place when it is almost done, but feels like it could use another few minutes to be completely cooked through. It will finish cooking in the time it takes to toss with sauce, plate, and serve.

Don’t stop these final moments of cooking with a rinse in cold water. The rinse will result in underdone pasta that is bound to be stuck in your molars for hours after your meal and seized starch that won’t hold a sauce as well as a hot noodle. Instead, remove your pasta to a colander if needed, or right into a sauce pan with sauce.

Pasta water is your best friend

I prefer to remove my pasta directly into a sauce pan with my chosen sauce. I can finish cooking, bind the flavors of both noodle and sauce, and I have the absolute powerhouse secret ingredient at my disposal – pasta water. As the pasta finishes cooking in the sauce, it will likely suck up all the delicious liquid matter in your sauce. Rather than panic, simply add a half cup or so of pasta water to the pan. Your pasta water is full of starch leeched out while cooking your noodles and will help create a glossy, silky sauce that perfectly compliments and commingles with your pasta. It’s magic, I tell you.

Prepare a sauce intended for your shape of choice, and don’t overdo it.

One of my kitchen heroes is Marcella Hazan. If you’re not familiar with her, think of her as the Julia Child for Italian cooking in the United States. Marcella’s first cookbook, The Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, introduced American cooks to a lesson all Italians grew up with – your sauce is determined by your pasta shape. Italians don’t match sauce to pasta willy nilly. Each shape is created to marry with one or two particular sauces. Think bucatini and amatriciana, pappardelle and bolognese, spaghetti alla vongole; these weren’t paired together on accident. You can, of course, not follow these traditions, but a true match makes for a truly transcendent meal.

Don’t forget: the sauce exists to compliment the pasta, not the other way around. We don’t want noodles swimming in a bowl of sauce. Rather, we want a bowl of pasta kissed by a sauce that allows the pasta to shine. Remember, when a high quality pasta is used, it will be the star.

Pasta waits for no one 

When it’s ready, it’s ready. Don’t waste any time between tossing with sauce and eating, or you run the risk of over-cooked pasta at an unpleasantly tepid temperature. Start eating as quickly as you can and enjoy every moment. This is no time for manners, it’s dinnertime.

The Story of Iaco River Cacao

by Andre Banks on January 13, 2023

Andre Banks ft. Cacao Fruit

Food with a story is food with a purpose. At Caputo’s, we’re always digging deeper to learn more about the products on our shelves. You shop with us because you care. Together, we can learn more about what makes each of our favorite items special. Where they come from, what they’re made of, and the history and foundation on which they are built.

With chocolate from Luisa Abram, the story is already rich. We partnered with this family to bring the Wild Juruá bar into existence, and are passionate about its story. New this year, Luisa is working with a new variety of wild cacao, this time from the Iaco River. Its story is complex, challenging, and important. Read it here in the words of her father, Andre Banks:

Andre Banks' History of Iaco River Cacao

“Natural rubber, like cacao, is indigenous to the Amazon Forest. The 1st Rubber Cycle started in 1870. Henry Ford needed rubber for tires, cushions, and many parts in his automobile. Edison needed rubber to insulate his wires that were electrifying America at the time. This triggered the quest for latex – the precursor to rubber – in the Amazon.

With time (and theft by English settlers), rubber trees found their way into Malaysia. Malaysia was able to consume the market, and much rubber production in the Amazon came to a halt.

Rubber Tree Seeds – Represented on Iaco 70%

In 1941, Japan invaded Malaysia and stopped the rubber trading. The allies asked Brazil to reignite its rubber production to fill the supply gap Japan was causing at the time. The USA signed a treaty with Brazil, whose part was to produce more rubber. This quest for rubber is known as the Second Rubber Cycle in Brazil.

Brazil sent to the Amazon Forest what was then called the “rubber soldiers.” In total, 50,000 people, most of them from the NW of Brazil, went to the Forest lured by the promise of quick and easy wealth. Brazil also sent 25,000 soldiers to fight the Nazis in Europe. The statistics are fuzzy, but it is believed that more people died in the Amazon trying to collect rubber sap (aka latex) than fighting the Nazis in Europe!

Boats loaded full of cacao fruit – floating on the Iaco River

The Second Rubber Cycle ended after WWII. The families that collect the cacao pods along the Iaco River are the descendants of the rubber soldiers sent to this part of the Amazon Forest. They are spread out over 4 old rubber plantations, each 4 days away from the largest city, Sena Madureira, in the state of Acre in Brazil. A fast boat takes 1 long day to get there.

This year, 50 families took part in the cacao harvesting collection in the Forest. In total there are 80 families. Those that did not take part in the cacao harvest did so because there were no cacao trees close to their homes. Their income comes from agriculture and, sadly, cattle ranching – a leading contributor to deforestation. After almost 70 years, families in this part of the Iaco river are being paid for goods provided by the Forest: cacao fruits!

To this day natural rubber is consumed by 50% of the demand, the other half is synthetic rubber, which has been around since the 1950s! Very little rubber is produced in the Amazon Forest nowadays. Hopefully cacao will become relevant and the locals can once again live off the Forest.

Rubber Tree Markings – Represented on Iaco 81%

The packaging of the Iaco 70 displays the rubber tree seeds. Iaco 81 is a reference to the markings the workers made in the rubber tree in order to collect the latex. This is our simple tribute to the ones who once cultivated hopes for a better life in the Amazon Forest.”

– Andre Banks

Andre Banks (right) and Family

Thank you for supporting artisans who are fiercely passionate about their food and the stories that have brought it to life. Our hope is that together we can enact enough pieces of small change to make an impact – whether that affects 50 families in the heart of the Forest, or brings much needed healing to one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world. We are proud to partner with families who make this change a reality, and we are grateful to you for indulging with us along the way. Progress has never tasted so sweet.

Books are for (Food) Nerds

by Yelena Caputo on May 19, 2023

Here at Caputo’s, we’re proudly self-proclaimed food nerds. We care about the food on our shelves and want to share every detail of where it comes from, why it’s special, and how you can best put it to use. Our education program provides opportunities for you to dive deep, this blog has troves of treasure for you to explore, and our mongers are always eager to chat the day away sharing their personal tips and tricks. Despite this wealth of ways to learn, we’re always hungry for more. Luckily our library is growing, and we hope yours can too. Check out some of our favorite titles below, and find them on our website or in market whenever you’re ready to read.

 

Tin to Table
By Anna Hezel

Fresh off the press!

In her new cookbook, Tin to Table: Fancy, Snacky Recipes for Tin-thusiasts and A-fish-ionados, food journalist and Epicurious senior editor Anna Hezel shares a whole ocean’s worth of ideas for cooking and entertaining with tinned seafood. Anna has written about food, drinks, and culture for The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Bon Appétit, Rolling Stone, GQ, Eater, and more. We’re excited and honored to collaborate with her in celebration of her latest book release. Also available as a bundle with some our favorite tins (pictured above).

 

Bean to Bar Chocolate
By Megan Giller

This delectable tour of America’s craft chocolate movement is the ultimate fulfillment for your chocolate obsession. Author Megan Giller traces the journey from harvesting cacao pods to transforming them into finished bars with distinctive and complex flavors – including fruity, floral, nutty, and smoky. You’ll then go behind the scenes to learn why artisanal chocolate from America’s hottest makers is so special.

Giller teaches the nuanced art of pairing chocolate with beer, spirits, bread, cheese and more, while master chefs highlight those irresistible combinations with recipes for decadent treats such as Ceylon Tea Fudge Sauce and Pop Rocks Chocolate Bark.

 

Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All
By Brad Thomas Parsons

Gone are the days when a lonely bottle of Angostura bitters held court behind the bar. Whether you’re a professional looking to take your game to the next level or just a DIY-type interested in homemade potables, Bitters has a dozen recipes for customized blends. Part recipe book, park project guide, part barman’s Manifesto, Bitters is a celebration of cocktail history and of the once-forgotten but blessedly rediscovered virtues of bitters.

 

Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maitre Fromager
By Max McCalman

After years of teaching courses for amateurs at the Artisanal Premium Cheese Center, where he is Dean of Curriculum, Max McCalman has developed a compelling set of classes for understanding and experiencing cheese. A full master’s course in a book, Mastering Cheese covers the world of cheese in twenty-two distinct lessons, featuring tasting plates that deliciously demonstrate key topics. Learn about the issues facing real raw-milk cheese and then go out and taste the differences between these cheeses and those made with pasteurized milk.

For the first time in any of his books, McCalman includes extensive information of the modern artisanal cheese revolution in the United States and prominently features these artisans and their products alongside the famous cheese of Italy, France, Spain and the United Kingdom. Complete with helpful charts and an invaluable index of more than 300 cheeses, Mastering Cheese is the definitive course that you can use in your own home to pursue your passion for cheese.

 

Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking
By Marcella Hazan

An essential collection of timeless classics.

Marcella Hazan, one of the most respected names in Italian cooking, has earned trust and fame for The Classic Italian Cook Book and More Classic Italian Cooking. These two collections are widely regarded as the most important, acclaimed, consulted, and enjoyed cookbooks in their field. Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking finally brings the two together in one incomparable column. An essential tool for our deli and many of our favorite local chefs, this is a title that deserves a well worn place on your shelf.

What We’re Giving – 2022 Edition

by Caputo's Online on December 13, 2022

What do serious food nerds give for Christmas? Pull up a chair and check out the blog below for serious #giftinspo from your favorite faces at Caputo’s.

Don’t see your favorite monger here? Drop by before the holiday—we’re open through the afternoon of Christmas Eve—and ask them for their personal recommendations. We’re certainly not lacking in opinions around here.

So, here you have it: each of our gift picks for 2022:

Matt Caputo
President

Jose Gourmet Custom 12-pack – Matt practically eats a tin of conservas each day for lunch, so it’s only natural he would want others to do the same. Find out why Matt loves these here.

 

Yelena Caputo
Vice President

Conservas Dinner & Classes – “Conservas culture is dominating just about every metropolis in the world, making me particularly excited about bringing conservas culture to our ever expanding city. Matt and I will be hosting a Conservas Dinner as part of our Education Program but slightly different, in a more personal and intimate setting. Space is limited so run now to our website to reserve. A truly one-of-a-kind gift experience! And if you’re into gifting experiences in lieu of more stuff, Caputo’s Classes are the gift for you. Our classes are based in appreciation and designed for foodies and newcomers alike, no experience necessary! Only Delicious Days Ahead.”

 

Adri Pachelli
Senior Manager & Director of Education

Viola Nuovo – “There’s olive oil, and then there’s NUOVO olive oil. The brightest, grassiest, and most peppery flavors are often unattainable in the coldest months, but a drizzle of nuovo olive oil brings liveliness with minimal effort. We receive our nuovo oil just before the holidays (right after olives are picked an pressed). There’s nothing else like it, and the most discerning palates on my list will love it.”

Jamey Chelius
15th & 15th General Manager

Regalis Caviar Golden Osetra 4oz -During the holiday season, Jamey values taking time from his busy schedule to enjoy the finer things in life, like a jar of caviar to share.

 

Austin Shimada
Holladay General Manager

King Floyd’s Spicy Margarita Peanuts – Austin’s annual family vacation includes a gifted treat each time they make a journey to the beach. This year, they’ll be enjoying cocktail inspired peanuts from bitters maker King Floyd’s.

 

Alicia Konzen
Downtown Market Manager

“My theme is “eFISHent gifting, a variety of tinned fish: Ati Manel, Espinaler, Ekone, Patagonia”

 

Antonia Horne
Affineuse, Caputo’s Cheese Caves

Old-Timey Sweets (raising the bar on her family’s conventional favorites) –Mayana bars, Tom Bumble, Pate de Fruit, Scaldaferro Torrone, Omnom Malt Balls

 

Christian Birch
Downtown Deli Manager

Christian knows these sell out every year and ran to grab some from our panettone pyramid for his friends and family before they’re all gone.

 

Taiya Kirk
Office Manager & Concierge Specialist

Taiya knows how to decompress after the holidays and is giving the gift of restful indulgence with Pump Street Chocolate Father Christmas paired with locally crafted beer, both available at our downtown location. Learn more about this dynamic pairing at our Beer & Chocolate class.

 

 

Marian McKenney
In-house Pastry Chef

Local Utah Gift Collection – Marian rests easy knowing we’ve curated the best local treasures so her loved ones don’t have to.

Conservas de Cambados: From Ría to Tin

by Harrison Weinfeld AKA The Sardinfluencer on September 12, 2022

Conservas de Cambados is both a factory and a label living at the intersection of artisanal quality and culinary tradition. Their iconic packaging, inspired by the seafood nets that dot the Galician coastline, is a visual reminder of the history and care that for decades has made this brand the benchmark for gourmet conserva in Spain.

Conservas de Cambados Collection

All photos taken by the author

In this article, I’ll unpack their history, discuss what makes their approach to tinned seafood special, and leave you with an original recipe for linguine and clams made with preserved Tunisian lemon and Calabrian chilis.

Nearly four decades ago, mussel wholesaler José Luis Alfonso set out to create a premium gourmet conserva company whose products could showcase the unrivaled splendor of the Galician seafood he grew up eating.

Founding Conservas de Cambados in 1985, his factory focused on sourcing the best raw material possible and treating it with love, care, and intention during every step of the canning process.

And when it came to finding that raw material, he knew he needn’t look further than the nearby Ría de Arousa. As the largest estuary in all of Galicia, for generations its nutrient rich waters and sandy coastlines have created a natural ecosystem for clams as well as the perfect open-water nursery for mussel farming where meterslong ropes of meaty mollusks grow on floating rafts called “Bateas”.

Today, the company is safely and creatively helmed by José’s children Maite and Keko who respectively head up quality control and company direction. What’s new is an increasing stock of fishes and seafood sourced from other parts of Spain. What hasn’t changed is their emphasis on small-batch, artisanal processing. Hauls of scallop and octopus, eels and uni are purchased during peak freshness and processed by the hands of the 50, mostly female artisans who make magic happen in a small factory in José’s hometown of Pontevedra.

Conservas de Cambados Small Sardines in Olive Oil

Small Sardines in Olive Oil

Opening my box from Caputo’s revealed a trove of eight varieties from this legendary brand. The level of care and quality of the packaging itself is immediately apparent. Each tin arrives to you in a hand-fastened cotton net, boasting bold hues of burgundy, black, navy, and forest green. Conservas de Cambados invented this style of packaging in 1989 and its been an indicator of their excellence ever since. Atop that netting sit premium labels embossed with gold foil that beg you to pick them up and feel them with your hands. The entire experience, outside to in, is textural and inviting. What I’m saying is: the packaging talks a mighty big game. And boy does it deliver.

The Small Sardines in Olive Oil, hauled from the waters off the north of Spain are hand-selected for quality and packed with care in their very same Galician facility. These gourmet swimmers need absolutely no dressing up and would be wasted in any dish where they weren’t showcased front and center. They’ll shine brightest as the headlining act for your next cheeseboard. Pro-tip: always present the tin wrapped when guests arrive and unveil its contents when it’s time to eat.

Conservas de Cambados Barnacles in Brine

Barnacles in Brine

Next, I opened a tin I’ve been dreaming of for some years now: the Barnacles in Brine. Known as “Percebes” in Spain, gooseneck barnacles are one of those rare delicacies you have to see and taste to believe. Resembling the claw of some long-extinct prehistoric reptile, these flavor bombs cannot be farmed on bateas like their mussel cousins. Instead, they must be hand-harvested in a death-defying dance from the rocky, surge-slapped cliffs on which they grow with little more than a rope and bucket. It’s a risk worth taking to bring these truly unique mollusks to plate and tin. All to taste their heavenly, coral-colored meat which resembles a mix of clams and escargot. They’re perfect for dunking in an herby aioli or dousing in clarified butter with a dash of lemon.

Conservas de Cambados Cockles in Brine

Cockles in Brine

The Medium-Sized Cockles in Brine, grown in Ría de Arousa (and featured in my recipe below), are packed with care and precision, each clam sitting upright and arranged in a bricked fashion (both to maximize the number per tin and enhance the gourmet experience even more). Before they even hit the can, they are cleaned by hand and examined to ensure not even a single grain of sand makes it into the brilliant bath of clam juice that these babies arrive in. If you’ve never had cockles, these are the cockles to try. They are sweet and tender and buttery smooth. And as perfect for popping pintxos as they are for folding into any recipe that calls for clams, like my take on the Italian classic Linguine Alle Vongole, which follows next:

RECIPE

Linguine and Clams With Preserved Tunisian Lemon and Calabrian Chilis

Linguine and Clams is one of my all-time favorite meals to make at home. While it traditionally calls for fresh manila or littleneck clams, not all of us live in place where those are easily sourced. That’s why, for years now, I’ve made mine with tinned cockles in brine. Undeniably easier and faster, I would also argue that due to the addition of that clammy brine they are packed in, this version of the dish is, dare I say, even more delicious. Today, I’ve taken my recipe one step further by creating it with almost exclusively pantry-friendly items sold by Caputo’s so you can make it at a moment’s notice, whenever those cravings arise.

INGREDIENTS:

● 1x tin Conservas de Cambados Cockles from Galicia in Brine (medium size)
● 1⁄2 lb Rustichella d’Abruzzo Linguine
● 3 tbs Caputo’s Extra Virgin Olive Oil
● 2 tbs unsalted butter
● 4 garlic cloves (thinly sliced)
● 1⁄2 small shallot (minced)
● 1⁄8 tsp Mill Pepper Co. White Pepper (finely ground)
● 1⁄2 cup dry white wine (I used Grüner)
● 1⁄8 Les Moulins Mahjoub Preserved Lemon (rind and pulp separated and finely chopped)
● 2 tbs flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
● Divina Chopped Calabrian Chilis (to taste)
● Sea salt (to taste)

1. Get a large pot of salted pasta water going over high heat. Meanwhile, place a large stainless steel or non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil, garlic and shallot and turn heat down to medium low, stirring until it becomes translucent and soft, being careful not to burn them. Add a pinch of salt.
2. Add pasta to boiling water and cook until al dente or just shy (it will cook a little more in the pan). While pasta boils, Add the white wine to the skillet and deglaze, bringing to medium heat until it reaches a simmer.
3. Once it has reduced by at least a quarter, open the cockles and ogle their beauty. Using the tin lid as a strainer, carefully pour the brine (without the clams) into the skillet. Stir until it begins to simmer, being careful not to scorch it. Stir in the white pepper. Stir occasionally while it reduces, about 2 minutes.
4. Add a ladle of the pasta water and turn heat to medium high. Stir consistently until a glossy sauce begins to form.
5. Once the pasta is cooked, add it all to the skillet (on low) along with the preserved lemon. Stir vigorously until the sauce is glossy and the pasta is well coated. If the sauce is too tight, add more pasta water.
6. Turn the pan off and add the cockles, butter and parsley, tossing until melted and combined. Finally, drizzle on the chopped calabrian chili followed by a couple pinches of flaky sea salt.
7. Serve the skillet family style or plate with more chopped chilis to your liking.

Enjoy!

Serves 3-4

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Harrison Weinfeld aka The Sardinfluencer is a writer, a cook, and a tinned-fish fanatic who’s on a mission to bring sustainably-harvested and responsibly-farmed conserva into home kitchens around the world.

Portugal’s Smallest Cannery

by Matt Caputo on September 27, 2022

You come to Caputo’s because you have come to expect and trust that we are proud geeks about all things food. When you buy products on our site or from our shelves, you understand that you’re supporting artisans that have been put through thorough vetting before being stocked here. We pride ourselves in this ethos and aim to uphold it and improve upon it as we grow.

The Caputo family plans their vacations as part of this ongoing effort to bring you the most thoughtfully curated selection of chocolates, cheeses, conservas (sardines!), and more. Recently, Matt, Yelena, Gia, and Frankie traveled to Portugal for some time away from the office. While there, they toured the Jose Gourmet factory and learned of some unique new projects coming down the conserva line. What they learned was both exciting and concerning. Read it in Matt’s words below:

Matt's Words on Portugal

“Yelena and I just got back from Portugal. It was both deeply inspiring and alarming.

Bad news first. I was surprised to learn that even in countries like Spain and Portugal where I assumed that traditional/artisan methods of production (especially when it comes to conservas) are more highly valued than they are in the US, the canning industry is going through significant consolidation.

To help me learn more, my friend Vasco put together [this] graphic showing every single Portuguese cannery, which brands they produce, and which fishing ports they are based out of.

As I was becoming a conservas geek I learned to revere A Poveira as THE best cannery for sardines and La Gondola for making the absolute best seafood pate. Both were recently bought by a huge Spanish company and they are already in the process of making these venerable canneries “more efficient” in very sad ways.

Others I talked to explained how despite the current perceived renaissance in conservas that it is mostly a proliferation of brands and that the list of canneries is going to continue to get smaller.

Despite all the pressures of the industrial food system snuffing out everything they can, I left feeling very inspired to see some incredibly serious people creating a spark that has the potential to keep the conservas flame burning bright.

While they started as just a brand buying from other canneries, Jose Gourmet has opened what is Portugal‘s newest and smallest cannery. 100 Misterios is the name. They have hired all the most talented hands that the giant factories have recently put out of a job. They go to the auctions daily and only buy the best. Most importantly, their product tastes the way a romantic like me would expect the smallest cannery in Portugal to taste. The best.

With how slick their packaging and marketing is I expected the owners of Jose Gourmet to be rich investors or a VC group. I was wrong. It was started by a man who is not wealthy and still works his day job as a full-time commercial airline pilot and his friend who is an artist (hence the beautiful packaging). If I understood his story well, Adriano, the pilot, sold his old condominium to start 100 Misterios.

Both men divide their time between Porto and Lisbon and are insanely excited about conservas. Some of the projects they are working on are unprecedented. Obviously, as their master importer I am biased, but I think they are important to the industry and where it will go.”

– Matt Caputo

When you shop at Caputo’s, you help us determine what is important to the industry and where it will go. You help us support small producers who are uplifting their communities, challenging monopolies, and enriching the earth. 100 Misterios is a perfect example of this ethos. They have targeted a loss in their community, locked on, and figured out how to revive it by any means necessary (condominiums be damned). By far the smallest cannery in Portugal, most of their production capacity is allocated to preserving traditional techniques you have come to know and love in Jose Gourmet and Ati Manel. We admire them for this artisanal work, but that’s not to say they don’t have more plans in store. Want to know more? Stay tuned to find out…

FANGST: Tinned Seafood from Nordic Waters

by Harrison Weinfeld AKA The Sardinfluencer on April 28, 2022

Assorted FANGST tinned seafood

Fangst, which means ‘catch’ in both Danish and Norwegian, is on a mission to rediscover the abundance and elegant simplicity of seafood from Scandinavian waters. They do so by marrying Nordic species with Nordic ingredients, creating some of the most uniquely delicious, irresistible, and forward-thinking tins available today.

Today I’ll discuss their history, share what I think makes them special, and show you how to create a gorgeous conserva salad with fresh fennel, burnt citrus, and Fangst’s very own marinated Limfjord mussels.

About a century ago, there were hundreds of canneries dotting the coastlines of Scandinavia, but nowadays that number has dwindled to just a handful. Much like North America, tinned seafood in Northern Europe has for many years been synonymous with bargain prices and supermarket quality, and as a result was largely overlooked.

Enter: Fangst founders Martin and Rasmus, who for years gazed longingly toward their European cousins to the south; places like Spain and Portugal where quality tinned fish is both ubiquitous and widely celebrated. Knowing the abundance of delicious seafood from Nordic waters – much of which was caught for export – the duo set out to create a northern counterpart to Southern Europe’s rich variety of conserva brands.

Today, as the premier contemporary conserva label operating in Northern Europe, Fangst is both looking toward the future and reawakening its region’s storied past, creating products that live at the intersection of sustainability, gastronomic excellence, craftsmanship, and design.

FANGST Baltic Sea Sprats smoked with heather and chamomile

All photos are by the author: FANGST Baltic Sea Sprats smoked with heather and chamomile

By partnering directly with fisherfolk, company managers, fishery scientists, and restaurant chefs, Fangst diligently selects their production partners on a case-by-case basis. This enables them to work with small-batch producers and sustainably pursue less commonly harvested species, rather than solely align themselves with a singular labeling scheme (an approach often better suited for large-format operations).

In addition to making Fangst sustainable, this intention keeps their products nimble, creative, hand-made, and delicious!

Which is all to say, when the fine folks at Caputo’s offered to send me out the full suite of their Fangst products to taste and review, I was expecting to be impressed. What I wasn’t quite prepared for, however, was to encounter what I now consider one of my favorite conserva labels operating in the game today.

Not since I first discovered Conservas de Cambados have I been so instantly smitten with a tinned seafood brand.

This says a lot, too, given that Fangst is a private label, meaning they rely on co-packers in Denmark and Latvia to produce their tins. But even despite this, they’ve already done what is (understandably), very hard for private labels to achieve: they’ve created something new and unique.

As an example, let’s take a look at their Brisling no. 1, Fangst’s Baltic Sea Sprats smoked with heather and chamomile:

Inside a minimalist matte and satin box, awaits Fangst’s iconic, golden tin, a purely aesthetic choice that somehow makes you feel like Charlie, waiting outside the Cockle Factory, golden ticket in hand.

Before cracking the lid, I was already a familiar fan of European sprats; those tender, tiny bait fish that are native to the waters of North-Eastern Europe and taste a lot like baby sardines.

FANGST flash-grilled salmon in cold-pressed rapeseed oil

FANGST flash-grilled salmon

But what I was unfamiliar with (in addition to this tin’s botanicals, which we’ll get into shortly) was the excellence of premium rapeseed oil, something that is also native to Nordic countries. For folks who haven’t heard, rapeseed, called “canola” in the US, is high up on a growing list of seed oils that when compared to extra virgin olive oil, are conventionally considered “lesser than.” What I’ve come to learn is that much of this distinction has to do with the industrialized, high-heat, and sometimes chemically-induced processes used to extract the canola that typically adorns our supermarket shelves. However, when it’s cold-pressed in small batches and processed with care, rapeseed oil becomes buttery, nutty, and bright, and every bit as delicious as extra virgin olive oil.

It’s also less overpowering, making it a perfect medium to amplify the subtle melodies of flavors that would otherwise be drowned out by the bold bass of EVOO. And so, cue the mossy heather and sweet chamomile, floral flavors which swirl beautifully around smoky sprats, culminating in a tin that’s unlike anything I’ve ever tasted from southern Europe (or anywhere else for that matter).

Fangst Faroe Islands flash-grilled Salmon

Their other products are equally impressive. The Faroe Islands Salmon, presented as a single, petite fillet, flash-grilled and proudly displayed in a pool of liquid gold is as simple as it is perfectly executed. The blue mussels, slow-grown in the fjords of Denmark to acquire “a particularly fine taste and texture” are sweet, buttery, and irresistibly delicious.

FANGST Blue Mussels No. 2 in cold-pressed rapeseed oil

FANGST Smoke Blue Mussels No. 1

And it is these herby and aromatic mussels, marinated with dill and fennel seed that form the base of my original salad which follows below.

To make it at home, head to the shop at Caputo’s for Blamusling No. 1 and while you’re at it, I highly encourage you to fill your cart with whatever other Fangst products they’ve got, if I don’t beat you to it first!

RECIPE

Shaved Fennel Salad with Fangst Marinated Mussels and Burnt Meyer Lemon

Shaved fennel salad – lightly dressed with pops of citrus and something salty – is a dish I make often, especially when it’s hot. And when I tasted the aforementioned Fangst mussels (Blamusling No. 1), I knew these two were a catch made in heaven. A light dressing of neutral oil and apple cider vinegar marries the crisp, raw fennel with burnt wedges of meyer lemon. Topped with the meaty mussels interspersed amongst flavor-bombs of a fennel-garlic aioli (made from the tin oil those marinated beauties came bathed in), and finished with Meyer lemon zest and flaky sea salt, this dish is bright and balanced and bonkers delicious.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1 tin Fangst Blamusling No. 1 Mussels (marinated in dill and fennel seed)
  • 1 medium fennel bulb, split, cored, sliced thin on mandolin (1-2mm slices)
  • Fennel frond
  • Zest of 2 meyer lemons
  • 2 Meyer lemons, peeled, and cut into wedges
  • ⅓ Cup avocado oil + 2 tbs, measured separately
  • 1 Tsp apple cider vinegar, measured in two ½ tsp portions
  • 1 Egg yolk
  • 1 Medium clove garlic, crushed
  • Flaky sea salt, to taste

To make the aioli, place the egg yolk, crushed garlic, half the fennel frond, ½ tsp of apple cider vinegar, and pinch of salt in a small cup that’s the right size and shape to accommodate an immersion blender. (note: this recipe can also be made with a good whisk, wide mixing bowl, and elbow grease). Blend the ingredients on high until well incorporated. Slowly drizzle the ⅓ cup of avocado oil, blending to emulsify. Crack the lid of the mussels. Ogle their beauty. Gently drizzle the tin oil into the cup, blending to emulsify. Be careful not to lose any of the mussels in the process. Stir in half the lemon zest and salt to taste. Funnel into a squeeze bottle and set aside.

Line a metal baking sheet or tinfoil with the meyer lemon wedges. Hit them with a torch until lightly charred. Flip and repeat. (note: if you don’t own a torch, you can sear them in a hot cast iron skillet instead)

Mix the remaining avocado oil with the remaining apple cider vinegar and a pinch of sea salt.

Toss the fennel in ¾ of the dressing and plate flat on a platter or shallow bowl. Afterward, add the burnt lemon to the mixing bowl and toss with remaining ¼ of the dressing. Carefully arrange the citrus atop the fennel to your liking.

Arrange the mussels next, followed by generous dots of the aioli, the remaining fennel frond and lemon zest and finally a dusting of flaky sea salt.

Enjoy!

Serves 2-4

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Harrison Weinfeld aka The Sardinfluencer is a writer, a cook, and a tinned-fish fanatic who’s on a mission to bring sustainably-harvested and responsibly-farmed conserva into home kitchens around the world.

What We’re Giving – 2021 Edition

by on December 21, 2021

What do serious food nerds give for Christmas? Pull up a chair and check out the blog below for serious #giftinspo from your favorite faces at Caputo’s.

Don’t see your favorite monger here? Drop by before the holiday—we’re open through the afternoon of Christmas Eve—and ask them for their personal recommendations. We’re certainly not lacking in opinions around here.

So, here you have it: each of our gift picks for 2021:

Matt Caputo
President and ultimate boss-man

Biscotti di Nocciola – Matt Caputo proclaimed these as “The BEST COOKIES EVER.” Made with EU protected hazelnuts from the Piemonte region, the delicate sweetness and crunch of these biscotti allow the flavor of the prized nut to shine.

 

Yelena Caputo
Vice President, and ultimatest boss who oversees said boss-man

Caputo’s Wild Jurua 70% – When preserving biodiversity within cacao meets art meets complex, flavorful craft chocolate, you give it to everyone you know. Made with wild cacao foraged from the Upper Amazon in the Brazilian jungle, this bar is just one way we fight to preserve the food traditions of our collective ancestors.

 

Adri Pachelli
Senior Manager & Director of Education

Mirzam Dark Chocolate Covered Oranges – Fresh oranges, delicately candied and dipped in Mirzam’s delicious 62% single origin dark chocolate. Sunshine in a jar, and Adri’s current favorite treat.

 

Alicia Konzen
Downtown Market Manager

Barnacle Foods kelp based products (hot sauce, seasonings, jellies, bbq sauce, and more!) – “Can I KELP you?”  Our Downtown queen loves puns, and the name of her gift shows it. Every Barnacle product features kelp as its main ingredient, with scrumptious and nutritious results.

 

Antonia Horne
Affineuse AKA maker of all tasty things from our Cheese Caves

Buddha Hand Tincture – Known for its unique shape and beloved for its aroma, Buddha Hand finds new expression in Workhorse Rye’s tincture (tincture: a single ingredient extraction, vs. bitters: multiple ingredients). With a spirit base of 100% clementines, this tincture offers incredible flavor for bevies and baking.

 

Jamey Chelius
15th & 15th General Manager

Pruneaux d’Agen Fourres – Our New Mexican native and fearless 15th leader is giving a classic French delicacy – he calls them “fancy prunes,” – this year.  These full bodied Agen prunes are de-pitted and filled with a smooth Agen prune puree delicately flavored with vanilla. Incredible accompaniment to roasted pork or funky cheese.

 

Austin Shimada
Holladay General Manager

Local Utah Gift Collection – Our Holladay GM – another fearless leader! – is giving the best of the best of Utah artisan goodies – a whole box of them, in fact. Utah cheese, Utah chocolate, Utah honey, and more, all in a beautifully branded gift box.

Christian Birch
Downtown Deli Manager

Caputo’s Christmas in July by Solstice Chocolate – Christian runs our downtown deli with a huge smile and a generous attitude. His gift is near and dear to our hearts – an eggnog spiced dark milk chocolate bar created by Matt, Yelena, and Solstice Chocolate as a gift to crew members when they couldn’t gather during Covid. This small batch bar – made just for Caputo’s crew – became so cherished that we had to share it with everyone.

 

Heather Aagard
Social Media Maven and Merchandising Coordinator

Caputo’s Culture Club – Who doesn’t want a subscription to fancy cheese, salumi, chocolate, and more?! Heather’s the wannabe president of this club full of foodies and friends. Every other month, recipients receive a box of cheese, salumi, accompaniments (including items like chestnut honey, craft chocolate, Matt’s fave hazelnut cookies), tasting guides and an unboxing video with our very own Adri.

 

 

Shaymus Bertagnolli
General badass and our in-house beer expert

Craft Beer from our very own cooler! – Our hero from Malty Monday has a new gig – curating the collection of craft beer for sale in our Downtown market! Grab a cold one for your friends and fam while you shop for artisan cheese, chocolate, and salumi to pair with it. That’s our kind of one-stop shopping.

Fighting for Wild Cacao: Caputo’s + Luisa Abram

by Matt Caputo on September 2, 2021

The modern US food system is crushing craftsmanship, sustainability, biodiversity and economic justice.

 

For years, I have known Caputo’s mission in a broad, eternal sense: “Fight to preserve the food traditions of our ancestors.” However, with the untimely death of my best friend, mentor, and hero, Tony Caputo (aka my dad), it sunk in that our time on Earth is so very limited. I realized we need a way to ensure we have tangible victories while we pursue what is sure to be an eternal fight – enter the Caputo’s Preservation Program (CPP).

Although I hope that Caputo’s can be a catalyst for changing the entire US food system, I also realize I may be tilting at windmills. If we cannot change the entire food system, I know we can at least ensure the success of a select few farmers and artisans. When short term profits are disregarded, we can make sure precious gems like Mesa Farm have absolutely all the support they need. We can make sure that when they falter, they can continue. Randy Ramsley, the owner of Mesa Farm, is one of the last to uphold farming traditions as they were done hundreds of years ago. He goes deep into regenerative agriculture and far beyond sustainability. Visiting his farm is a spiritual experience. Years ago we agreed to create logos and a marketing plan for Randy, but we also guaranteed we would buy 100% of his excess cheese supply. We have held to our commitment through thick and thin and Randy is always the first to say Mesa Farm would have folded at several different junctures if it were not for the support of the Caputo’s community of food lovers and food professionals.

Mesa Farm is a shining example of how agriculture should be conducted; however, wholesome cheese and land stewardship in Utah is not our only area of concern. As chocolate fanatics, it has been painful to watch the global food system whittle away at the biodiversity of cacao that indigenous civilizations of Central and South America experienced.

This pain became particularly unbearable during the beginning of the pandemic when Luisa Abram’s father Andre told us our favorite bar, Juruá 70%, would need to be permanently discontinued. This bar was made with a unique genetic strain of cacao that only grows along the banks of the Jurua River in Brazil’s Upper Amazon. He explained the mounting challenges and financial burden of accessing this cacao (in the world’s most remote jungle) and bringing it to market made it impossible to continue.

As he explained the challenges, I understood that they were complicated, continuous and growing. I also realized that any hope of making this wild crop economically viable may take a decade of investment. I knew their company was facing pandemic induced financial challenges and could not shoulder the burden.

This is when I knew that despite our own pandemic emergencies, Caputo’s could solve this.

If we throw out any expectation of profit on this chocolate bar in the near future, we could prepay for the next harvest. Luisa and Caputo’s together could make sure the small community in the Jurua had the money and guidance to set up their own fermentary and continue to return to Jurua to harvest this incredible cacao, year after year. With Caputo’s guaranteed support, Luisa can purchase all of the Jurua cacao the foragers can procure. 

It cost us a lot, but the nice thing about not having investors to please and owning your own family business is that you get to decide what to invest in. It may not make a worthy investment return in my lifetime, but that is not what is important. What is important is that Caputo’s and Luisa Abram have created a bar of chocolate that will ensure this crown jewel of the Amazon is protected for future generations.

When you taste a Caputo’s Wild Jurua bar you experience the gustatory exhilaration of some of the world’s most rare cacao. Then, when you see the Caputo’s shield emblem on the walls of our store or on the pages of our website, you will know what it stands for, and that you have joined us in our fight. What a beautiful way to fight: spreading camaraderie and love for intrinsically good food.

https://caputos.com/product/caputos-wild-jurua-70-luisa-abram/

 

#deliciousdaysahead

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