Sometimes life has a way of leading you right back to where you started. I was born and raised in Salt Lake City by a Greek mother and a Louisianan father from Cajun country. Growing up, I helped my mom cook for various holidays – sometimes Cajun, sometimes Greek, and sometimes a mixture of both. I left for college in Atlanta, Georgia and then went on to England to pursue a degree in Ethnobotany, which culminated in my research of how small farms on the island of Sicily are adapting to globalization by turning old family recipes for things grown on their land into delicious products for the larger global market. When I moved back home to SLC after school, I felt lost and thought I’d move again. But instead, I ventured into Caputo’s and saw all the possibility here. Four years later, here I am. 

Living in Salt Lake again has given me some quality time with my parents and taught me some valuable lessons in baking and cooking. As the youngest of 5 girls, my mom was never short of help in the kitchen. Now, baking with my mom has become less sweatshop and more of a lesson in productive bickering (I mean that in the best way possible, Mom!). For instance, when I suggest a change to the recipe that she doesn’t like, she responds with “hmmm, I’ll take that into consideration.” However, when I suggest something she might like, the response is, “let’s try it and see how it goes.” 

This koulourakia recipe was no different – koulourakia are likely some of the best recognized Greek cookies as they are buttery, not too sweet, and perfect for dipping in tea and coffee. Typically made and eaten around Easter, but lovely year round, they’re generally made in a large batch and formed into twists or wreaths that look elegant and complicated but are quick to form and bake. This recipe should make about 60 cookies, which may sound like a lot, but I assure you it’s the perfect amount. I like to have them for breakfast dipped in some earl grey tea or coffee. 

Our family recipe calls for a few warm spices like cinnamon, anise and orange peel as well as some Metaxa, a Greek brandy (whiskey is fine to substitute.) If you want a more classic version, leave these spices out. Whether you need a grab and go breakfast or a snack to share with friends, koulourakia are a perfect treat for any occasion. 

KOULOURAKIA
Makes approximately 60 cookies
Total time: 1 h 15 mins 

• 1 c butter softened
• 1 c sugar
• 3 eggs (save 1 egg white for egg wash)
• 1/4 c whole milk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla 
• 5 c flour
• 3 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 
• 1/2 teaspoon ground anise 
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon orange peel (dried or fresh)
• 2 tablespoons Metaxa or whiskey 

In a mixing bowl, whip butter until light and fluffy. Add in sugar, eggs, vanilla, milk, and whiskey and allow to incorporate. Make sure all ingredients are room temperature!

In a separate bowl sift in flour, baking powder, cinnamon, anise, nutmeg, orange peel. Mix up so ingredients are evenly distributed and then slowly add into wet ingredients until incorporated. Allow the dough to rest for about 15-20 minutes. Once rested, preheat oven to 350 and flour a surface to begin rolling cookies. 

To create the twist roll about a tablespoon of dough into a long thin pice and fold in half (see diagram). Then twist one leg over the other twice. For a wreath you can twist a few more times and connect the ends of the twist. You will need about 4-5 trays lined with aluminum foil for baking. Leave about 2 inches between each cookie as they will rise. Once all rolled out, mix remaining egg white with a dash of water until it’s a bit frothy. Apply to the top of the cookies with a pastry brush. If you want a glossier finish, add an egg yolk to this mixture as well. 

Bake for 20-25 minutes, until slightly browned and cookies no longer stick to tray when picked up. We rotate them every 8 minutes or so between racks so each cookie sheet gets even browning. Koulourakia will freeze well and keep well in a jar on the counter top. My bet is they won’t have to last too long though! 

Orthodox Easter and Catholic Easter (I didn’t name it this, Google did) are about as close as they’ll ever be, which makes my life that much more full of the traditional fare for two whole weeks. The American classics are in full swing for the first week. Think lovely brunch spreads, hams, lamb, and bright spring vegetables here. Then the Greek fare kicks in for the second week, much of this due to the many, many Greeks in my life. Think American Easter, but tripled in size and with more dietary restrictions throughout the Easter season. Fasting, vegetarian, and pescatarian meals are all included at some point and I’m looking forward to sharing this salad for one such meal.

If you know me, you know I love fennel. You’ll find it tucked into any meal I’m involved in creating. It’s here, and I’m not sorry. Finely shaved fennel and soaked shallot play with the spiciness of arugula and brightness of boquerones in a delicious, complex way. A few capers and sherry  vinaigrette seal the deal with extra vibrancy. Serve on Palm Sunday, Good Friday, or whenever you feel like it.

A few notes on making this and any other salad especially delicious.

1. Season your greens – Wanna know why salads are especially delicious when you dine out at restaurants? Those lovely little lettuce bits get tossed with a sprinkle of salt before anything else touches them. Don’t salt them enough to make them salty, just enough to help coax out the flavor of your greens.
2. Soak your sliced onion (or shallot) – Do your onions have a little too much bite? Give them a soak in cold water for about ten minutes before using. The flavor will mellow and let the rest of your ingredients share the spotlight.

Easter Boquerones Salad
Serves 8

• 12 ounces arugula, washed and seasoned
• 1 fennel bulb, sliced
• 1 shallot, sliced
• 1 tablespoon salt preserved capers, soaked in water for 1 hour
• 24 Spanish white anchovies in vinegar or tinned sardines
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Combine arugula, fennel, shallot, and capers in large bowl. Whisk sherry vinegar and oil, season to taste, and toss with salad. Arrange on a serving platter and top with  anchovies. Serve immediately with toasted baguette and more anchovies.

If spring had a cake, it would be carrot cake. At least in my world, that is. My whole being is ready to welcome spring. This last second winter is not working for me, so I’m pretending it’s really spring from the comfort of my own kitchen.

I grew up on carrot cakes that were just trying too hard. You know I mean? Have you ever had a carrot that was, just, extra? Too many nuts, an offensive amount of raisins, and piles of cream cheese frosting? Anyone? I now love carrot cake, but it sure took some time to finally come around to it. Now that I’m old enough to make my own decisions, any my own cake, I’m making it the way my childhood self would love it most. Minimal nuts, no raisins, and a smattering of frosting.

Parsnips have long been a love of mine. They have a more nutty, earthy taste and a spiced finish that makes me weak in the knees. I wanted to pair that earthier flavor with cardamom rather than the classic cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg combo, and boy am I glad I did. I’m so happy with the resulting flavor. This recipe is based on Bon Appetit’s best carrot cake recipe, but with my own riffs on the spices and a completely different frosting.

Frosting is a touchy subject for yours truly. Cream cheese frosting is often too heavily applied and buttercream is just straight up strange. That weird crusty thing that happens when it sits out? No. Thanks. Instead, creme fraiche and mascarpone are teaming up for a lighter, mellower finish.

I’ll be making this for Easter and for any other reason I can find to do so. The recipe is easy to make into cupcakes and without frosting, it could be argued as, dare I say, healthy-ish.

Parsnip Cardamom Cake

Recipe adapted from BA’s Best Carrot Cake
Serves 12

Cake

• Vegetable oil
• 1 cup chopped walnuts
• 1 pound parsnips, peeled, coarsely grated
• 1 cup buttermilk, room temperature
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons ground cardamom
• 2 teaspoons ground ginger
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
• ¾ teaspoon baking soda
• 4 large eggs, room temperature
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• ¾ cup dark brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon Addition cardamom tincture
• ¾ cup vegetable oil

Frosting

• 8 ounces creme fraiche
• 16 ounces masarpone
• 1 1/2 cups powdered sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon Addition cardamom tincture
• Kosher salt

Preheat oven to 350°. Lightly coat two 9″-diameter cake pans with vegetable oil. Line bottoms with parchment paper rounds; lightly coat rounds with nonstick spray.

Using an electric mixer on high speed, beat creme fraiche and mascarpone in a medium bowl until smooth, about 1 minute. Beat in vanilla extract, tincture, and salt. Reduce speed to low and gradually mix in powdered sugar. Increase speed to high and beat frosting until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.

Place 1 cake, domed side down, on a platter. Spread 1/2 cup frosting evenly over top. Place remaining cake, domed side down, on top. Spread top and sides with 1 cup frosting and chill 30 minutes to let frosting set. Spread remaining frosting over top and sides, swirling decoratively.