Guys, IT SNOWED! Never mind that it lasted 15 minutes, and never mind that none of it stuck around. The important fact here is that frozen precipitation fell from the sky the first week of November. I began dreaming of all the hot drinks in my near future as I watched those big, fluffy flakes fall gracefully to the wet ground. Cider, hot toddies, tea, but most importantly, drinking chocolate. Not the powdered milk and cocoa with weird dried marshmallows, but real drinking chocolate.

The key to this recipe is high-quality chocolate. Any low quality bars won’t create the right consistency or flavor that you and your loved ones deserve. With so few ingredients, we rely heavily on the flavor of our chocolate to make this drink shine. I’ve always had a soft spot for the Solstice Bolivia bar. Notes of honey, cream, and very subtle warm baking spices are the perfect flavor I want when I’m craving drinking chocolate.

We made chocolate cake pops just a few weeks ago with a special focus on ganache. For cake pops, the ganache served as a binder to keep the cake crumb together and on the pop sticks. Here, we’re making what I like to call a “loosey-goosey ganache” that is the perfect consistency for drinking. This is the same process as making a thick ganache, we’re just using more cream than chocolate. The very nature of drinking chocolate is luxuriously
thick, so a little goes a long way here. I only need about 1/4 cup when I make this on special occasions with friends, so let’s not lose our marbles over the use of heavy cream. However, should you feel that your marbles are still in jeopardy of being lost, use whole milk or half and half.

This is a fun, easy, and quick recipe that comes together in less than 10 minutes. Make this with your kids, your friends, or your family. This is my favorite and most decadent way to welcome the cold weather. Blankets, thick socks, and a fire make it the perfect early winter evening.

SOLSTICE DRINKING CHOCOLATE
Serves 4

• 14 ounces heavy cream
• 5 ounces or two dark chocolate bars, 70% cacao or higher, preferably Solstice Bolivia
• Fleur de sel sea salt
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a medium bowl, whisk 4 ounces of heavy cream until whipped, but still loose. We don’t want stiff peaks, but enough volume to hold cream together when we top our chocolate with it. Set aside.

Simmer a small pot of water. Set a metal or glass bowl over it, making sure there is air between the bottom of the bowl and the simmering water. Pour 10 ounces of cream into bowl and heat until it’s warm enough to melt the chocolate. Add 5 ounces of chocolate and stir to melt. Once the chocolate is melted, use and immersion blender or whisk to combine. Whisk until your ganache is fully blended. Stir in vanilla, then add fleur de sel in small pinches, to taste.
Pour into small espresso cups, Mason jars, or other small glasses. Spoon whipped cream on top and serve immediately.

This is an easy recipe to add your own unique twist. Here are a few easy ways to make it your own:

• Steep the cream ahead of time with your favorite spices
• Add a cinnamon stir stick upon serving
• Add a dash of cayenne for a spicy kick
• Add booze. Any booze. I’m a personal fan of whiskey or Bailey’s
• Mix equal parts drinking chocolate with coffee
• Top with marshmallows or whipped cream
• Substitute your favorite bitters for half of the vanilla extract

I don’t consider myself a serious baker, but I enjoy baking. I also don’t consider myself a festive person, but I do enjoy getting in the spirit of things with the right people. And the right people are often kids. I will not go crazy decorating with friends, but I will with my little sister or with my friends’ children,  a number rapidly growing with each passing year. I love crafting with kids, and Matt and Yelena were gracious enough to let me steal their two darling littles for some fun Halloween-themed cake decorating.

I love cake pops. Say what you will about them, but small portions of delicious cake that don’t require utensils are always a yes in my book. Plus, it got us in the mood for the upcoming holiday. Marou’s Heart of Darkness bar is an incredible option for chocolate cake pops.

In making cake pops, the actual cake matters, but the binder matters even more. Most cake pops use icing to keep the crumb together. Here, we’re using an easy ganache that’s a real knockout. As a refresher, ganache is the magical combination of chocolate and cream. Different ratios serve different purposes—from glazes and icings to truffle fillings and beyond. The high percentage of cacao in the Heart of Darkness bar make it rich and complex, while those intriguing tasting notes shine through any kind of decorating you succumb to. Sprinkles and icing are no match for the intense flavor of this bar. You’ll have no trouble sneaking these while the kids are out trick or treating or while fast asleep after their sugar high come down.

SPOOKY MAROU CAKE POPS
Makes about 20 cake pops

• 20-25 lollipop sticks, available at any craft store
• One 8-inch chocolate cake (I love using this recipe)
• 3 Marou Heart of Darkness bars, or about 9 ounces of your favorite dark chocolate, chopped or broken into small pieces
• 3 ounces heavy cream
• 6 ounces white chocolate for icing, optional
• Immersion blender, optional, but so handy

In a large mixing bowl, crumble the cake between your fingers into fine crumbs. Set aside.

Simmer a small pot of water. Set a metal or glass bowl over it, making sure there is air between the bottom of the bowl and the simmering water. Pour cream into bowl and heat until it’s warm enough to melt the chocolate. Add 3 ounces of chocolate and stir to melt. Once the chocolate is melted, immerse your blender fully, making sure there is no air stuck in the top of your blender. Blend until your ganache is fully mixed and shimmering. If you don’t have a blender, continue stirring until the ganache comes together. Set aside to cool.

Once ganache has cooled, add small amounts to your cake crumb and mix with your hands. Continue adding ganache until the crumb holds together, but isn’t totally dense and weighed down. Scoop out portions for your cake balls. Roll each into a ball on a small baking sheet lined with parchment paper, and freeze 5-10 minutes.

While your cake balls are chilling, begin melting the remaining chocolate over simmering water to coat your cake balls. Poke a lollipop stick into each cake ball, spoon melted chocolate over each ball until fully coated. Coat all in dark chocolate or use another bowl to melt the white chocolate and use the same process to coat. You can set these on a plate to set and have a flat bottom, or stick the bottom of each stick into styrofoam to set in a more circular ball. Allow 30 minutes to set, then decorate to your heart’s desire. Or you can just eat them—that works too!

If my friends have ever been to my house, I’ve likely fed them farro. It’s my go-to for sharing ,and it fits into almost any special dietary need. Plus, it’s delicious.

I may or may not have exhausted the palettes of all my friends with this play on risotto that uses farro instead. This pushed me to find a new way to prepare farro that’s a bit more exciting. And that exciting dash lies in a bottle of Peychaud’s. Adding bitters to my dressings, marinades, and vinaigrettes has opened my eyes to all sorts of new, fun ways to gussy up some old recipes. For this one, I cooked farro like rice rather than risotto, tossed in some pan-roasted zucchini, onion, and eggplant from the farmers market, added some flare with Laziz Toum and artichoke hearts, and then left the whole mess of deliciousness to chill for a few hours.

Once chilled, I added Peychaud’s to my favorite—and incredibly simple—dijon and sherry vinaigrette and drizzled it over the salad. I am so pleased with the results that I made this twice last week for dinner. Sweet and aromatic Peychaud’s adds a floral, almost-feminine component to the dish that matches its lightness and delicate flavors. It can be served hot or cold and loves a fried egg on top for added protein. Go on, you know you want some.

Peychaud’s Vinaigrette

• 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
• 1 tablespoon dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 4 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
  
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Whisk all ingredients in a medium bowl. Drizzle over salads, greens, or roasted veggies.

Farro Salad
Serves 6

• 1 1/2 cups farro
• 1 eggplant, cut into quarters and sliced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 zucchini, sliced
• 1 onion, diced
• 1 tablespoon Laziz Toum
• Salt and pepper, to taste

In a small bowl, sprinkle a generous amount of salt over sliced eggplants. Toss to coat and let sit at least 20 minutes. Squeeze slices to release any excess moisture and lay out on a paper towel.

Cover farro in 4 cups of water in a small saucepan. Add a few pinches of salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and let simmer 20 minutes.

In a skillet over medium heat, warm olive oil and onions. Cook until onions are browned entirely. Add zucchini and Laziz Toum. Stir occasionally and cook until zucchini is tender. Remove to a bowl. Add eggplant to the skillet and cook until browned. Add eggplant, cooked farro, and any additional salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or chill at least one hour. Serve with Peychaud’s vinaigrette.

Shop the market for bitters 

Some ingredients serve one perfect purpose. Not bitters. As the excitement over expertly crafted cocktails continues to skyrocket, a variety of bitters are slowly making their way into my home and kitchen. If there’s an open bottle of bitters lying around, you can bet I’ll start playing with it in my food. I’ve had a few missteps in the beginning, but I can safely say I’ve got my sealegs now and am prepared to share my first bitters recipes.

Bitters are great in the kitchen. I crave complexity and depth in everything I make, so bitters are a natural addition to my pantry. Aroma and flavor—it’s all in that little bottle that packs a powerful punch. Though it’s not a new idea to introduce bitters to your cooking, it’s still sparsely used in cookbooks and cooking magazines. The easiest place to start is with Addition. Here are Matt’s words about Addition:

“Addition Cocktail Spice is just what the name implies: spice for cocktails. The company’s products are similar to bitters in terms of aromatic potency, but have no bittering agents. While most are simply single-ingredient tinctures, try hunting down better ingredients and getting a better extraction than the spice geeks at Addition.

Some of these spices, such as the Pink Pepper and Turmeric, are useful primarily as aromatics, since they have big noses but subtle flavor. Others, such as the Black Pepper and Piri Piri, offer a lot more heat and flavor than they do aromatics. Still more spices, like Cardamom, Garlic, Rosemary, and Thai Chili, have a big impact on both nose and mouth.”

Cardamom, you say? That is relevant to my interests, especially with the cold weather blowing in recently. I yearn for the comfort of warm baking spices, and cardmom is one of my favorites. Since Addition’s tinctures offer a singular, strong flavor, I wanted to add this to a tart with a perfect crust and a fun, flavored pastry cream. I settled on mixing chestnuts and cardamom, I’m calling it my Sayonara Summer Tart. We’re welcoming in the cold seasons here, friends, and this is the tastiest way to do so. Sweet tart pastry dough is the base for a lightly sweetened combination of pastry cream and chestnut cream, with a generous helping of Addition Cardamom, for comfort’s sake.

Chesnut and Cardamom Tart
Serves 8-12

Sweet tart dough:

• 8 tablespoons butter
• 1/3 cup sugar
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 egg yolk
• 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

Mix well, stirring and folding until there are no dry patches. Chill for at least 4 hours or overnight, until firm. Roll dough out and press into a 10-inch tart shell pan. Bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until it begins to brown.

Chestnut pastry cream:

• 1 1/4 cups milk
• 3 large egg yolks
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch
• 1/2 cup chestnut cream (substitute pureed chestnuts and sugar simple syrup if unavailable)
• 1 teaspoon Addition Cardamom Cocktail Spice

Mix the sugar and egg yolks together in a medium bowl. Add the flour and cornstarch to the the egg mixture, mixing until you get a smooth paste.

Bring the milk just to boiling. Remove from heat and add slowly to egg mixture, whisking constantly. Pour the egg mixture into a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly. When it boils, whisk mixture constantly for another 30 – 60 seconds until it becomes thick. Remove from heat and immediately whisk in the chestnut cream and Addition tincture. Spread over cooled tart shell. Serve at room temperature.

Shop the market for bitters

Holy cow, this was such a wet week for us in SLC! I’ve been cozied up in all my favorite sweaters and boots all week, and I’m so surprised at how much I’ve enjoyed the cool weather and rain puddles. I had spent last weekend and the beginning of this week preparing for our Eat Local Cooking Class. Eat Local Week began this past Saturday, and our class was part of the festivities taking place all over the valley in celebration of our fabulous local food farmers and artisans. I had the menu set weeks in advance, local produce purchased, and a hoard of local products from the Caputo’s shelves that I couldn’t wait to share. Then, the rain came, and it changed the whole menu.

One of my favorite recipes comes from one of my favorite women, Marcella Hazan. I don’t think there will ever be another person or collection of recipes that I will admire more than her and hers. Smothered cabbage—it may sound bland or boring, but this is the base to the most comforting soup I’ve ever made. Caramelized onions, browned garlic, shredded cabbage, and light seasoning slowly cook over low heat for hours. This transforms the cabbage into a sweetened, complex, and totally craveable dish. On its own, it is the perfect side for roasted and braised meats. When I’m sick, however, this is the foundation for the soup that has entirely replaced the ol’ standby, chicken noodle.

I make a double batch of smothered cabbage as soon as I begin to feel a cold coming on. The cabbage will last for about two weeks in the refrigerator, and it only takes 25 minutes to make a new bowl of soup to snuggle up to. Cabbage is just beginning to make its fall debut at our local farmers markets, and this is the perfect recipe to add to your wintertime arsenal.

Marcella Hazan’s Smothered Cabbage, Venetian Style
Serves 4-6

• 2 pounds green, red, or Savoy cabbage
• ½ cup chopped onion
• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• Salt
• Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
• 1 tablespoon wine vinegar, white or red (I use sherry vinegar)

Detach and discard the first few outer leaves of the cabbage. The remaining head of leaves must be shredded very fine. If you are going to do it by hand, cut the leaves into fine shreds, slicing them off the whole head. Turn the head after you have sliced a section of it until gradually you expose the entire core, which must be discarded. If you want to use the food processor, cut the leaves off from the core in sections, discard the core and process the leaves through a shredding attachment.

Put the onion and olive oil into a large sauté pan, and turn the heat on to medium. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes colored a deep gold, then add the garlic. When you have cooked the garlic until it becomes colored a very pale gold, add the shredded cabbage. Turn the cabbage over 2 or 3 times to coat it well, and cook it until it is wilted.

Add salt, pepper, and the vinegar. Turn the cabbage over once completely, lower the heat to minimum, and cover the pan tightly. Cook for at least 1 1/2 hours, or until it is very tender, turning it from time to time. If while it is cooking, the liquid in the pan should become insufficient, add 2 tablespoons water as needed. When done, taste and correct for salt and pepper. Allow it to settle off the heat for a few minutes before serving.

Marcella Hazan’s Rice and Smothered Cabbage Soup
Serves 4

• 3 cups homemade meat broth or 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 2 cups of water, or 1 1/2 bouillon cubes dissolved in 3 cups of water
• 2/3 cup Arborio rice
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Put the cabbage and broth into a soup pot, and turn on the heat to medium. When the broth comes to a boil, add the rice. Cook uncovered, adjusting the heat so that the soup bubbles at a slow but steady boil, stirring from time to time until the rice is done. It must be tender, but firm to the bite, and should take around 20 minutes. If while the rice is cooking, you find the soup becoming too thick, dilute it with a ladleful of homemade broth or water. The soup should be on the dense-ish side when finished.

When the rice is done, before turning off the heat, stir in the butter and the grated cheese. Taste and correct for salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into individual plates and allow it to settle a few minutes before serving.

Note: The smothered cabbage can be prepared 2 or 3 days ahead of the soup, or served as a side dish from here. It also freezes well.

My favorite resurgent food theme from the last few years is what I like to call “grandma chic.” While food writers, bloggers, chefs, and amateur food enthusiasts will claim to march to beat of their own drum, we all love to follow and comment on the latest foodie trends.

The trends of 2014 included: the Great Kale Revolution, healthy lunches for kids, all local everything, gluten-free foods, and upscale comfort food. So far, 2015 moved further away from molecular gastronomy and embraced things like biscuits, waffles, poutine, and more obscure culinary traditions.

For me,  it was “grandma chic” above all else. Everyone believes that their grandma or other kitchen matriarch makes at least one dish better than anyone else in the world. We’re all too happy to pit our sweet, shrinking, and wise elderly relatives against each other in hopes of prevailing with the most authentic and tastiest recipe.

Well guess what, both my grandmothers are Kitchen Queens. My paternal grandmother has cornered the market on eggplant parmigiano, lasagna, and peach pie. My maternal grandmother, Nonna, was the authority on fresh pasta, taralli, and seasonal cooking. She left us all too soon, but made a lasting impression on my life and forever changed my perspective in the kitchen.

Rino, of the now-closed Rino’s Italian Ristorante in the Parley’s Canyon area, is my first stop at the Saturday farmers market at Pioneer Park. His produce reminds me of my Nonna’s kitchen table.

A fresh white tablecloth was the base for the summer’s bounty, day in and day out. Tomatoes, peppers, greens, and many other veggies were piled high, tempting us grandchildren with their wafting scents. We’d sneak tomatoes and peppers all summer, but left our favorite veggies alone in hopes they’d be used for our favorite dishes. Mine included fresh orrechiette with veggies from the garden, braised beef with tomato sauce, and fried squash blossoms.

Nonna lightly fried squash blossoms in a big, cast iron pan that filled the kitchen with a sweet scent that tortured me until dinnertime. Our whole family would sit down, and I’d silently pray everyone would help themselves to the main course so I could get my grubby little hands on the blossoms. I loved the crunch at the tip of the blossom that gave way to its tender base filled with deliciousness. Sometimes, she’d fill them with herbed ricotta. Other times, she fried them plain, with no filling. I didn’t care which she chose, so long as there were blossoms to be had.

Rino has had blossoms since the market began this summer. I haven’t missed buying them—not even once. Each one is ready to be used, slightly fragrant, and cut the same way my Nonna cut them from the garden. I fry at least two of the 10 blossoms I buy from him. The others may be fried as well, or sautéed for pasta, added to farro salads, or as a simple topping on fried eggs or a frittata. No matter how they’re used, I silently thank both my Nonna for her delicious, simple way of cooking and Rino for the opportunity to cook her recipes from my childhood.

Make these squash blossoms for the people you love most. Serve them alongside pasta, poultry, or egg dishes, and manipulate this recipe so it becomes your own. Then pass it down as your family grows. Maybe someday, our grandkids will pit our recipes against each other, too.

Fried Squash Blossoms
Makes 10 blossoms

• 1 10-inch cast iron frying pan
• Olive oil, for frying
• 1 cup ricotta
• 1 tablespoon fennel pollen
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 6 ounces beer, lager, or pilsner (I’ve really loved using Squatters Bumper Crop this summer)
• 10 zucchini blossoms, stamens removed
• Fleur de sel sea salt

Add oil to the pan, about 1 to 2 inches deep. Heat on medium-high until oil is fragrant and shimmering. While oil is heating, remove stamens from blossoms. Mix ricotta with fennel pollen and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon or pipe 1-2 tablespoons of the ricotta mixture into the center of each blossom. Don’t overfill with ricotta (I know it’s tempting, I still make this mistake. Remember, we want to taste the blossom.) In a medium bowl, whisk beer into flour and salt until only small lumps remain.

Dredge blossoms in batter and shake off any excess before laying them into the oil to fry. Make sure not to overcrowd the pan and fry each side of blossoms for about 4 minutes. Remove to a plate layered with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with fleur de sel and serve immediately.

The Tuesday Farmer’s Market at Pioneer Park is a much anticipated event for many. It signals the beginning of a bountiful harvest and the last weeks of summer. Tuesdays are a smaller, quieter, and food-focused version of the Downtown SLC Farmers Market on Saturdays. I can stroll listlessly through the handful of stalls in the early evening rather than navigating a path, elbows first, through a sea of fellow food lovers in the early hours of Saturday. There’s more time to chat with farmers about different varieties of fruits and vegetables, more time to make a wise choice, and much less traffic or other elbows.

My first Tuesday purchases were huge, heavy heirloom tomatoes, a small basket of cherry tomatoes, a perfectly ripe watermelon, bread, and greens. Greens, bread, and heirloom tomatoes were bought for specific purposes. The cherry tomatoes and watermelon were for halloumi, but I wasn’t quite sure how they’d all come together, or if one would be chosen over the other. Bon Appetit’s recipe inspired me to create an easy, fresh way to incorporate both components with what Evan has dubbed “the cheese that grills.”

As previously mentioned this month, Halloumi has the uncanny ability to grill or brown, without ever melting. It always feels strange to lay pieces of cheese down on a fiery hot cast iron pan and see it sizzle and brown rather than melt into a cheesy, goopy mess. The salty, sheep’s milk cheese mingles perfectly with fresh, sweet watermelon and warm, charred tomatoes. A sprinkling of chopped mint and basil elevate the aroma and fresh factor, while a decent dousing of Viola EVOO is the perfect finish, because duhhhhh, Viola. Note: I finish everything with Viola, because it makes everything infinitely more delicious…and because I can.

This a lovely, plated salad for two to four people, but also a lovely addition to a large barbecue. Lay components in clean lines for a fancy-schmancy buffet-worthy dish. Either way, these ingredients are all in season, and you deserve a delicious salad in your life. Go on, enjoy.

Watermelon and Halloumi Salad 
Serves 2-4

• 1/2 pound rindless watermelon slices, cut into triangles
• 1 tablespoon olive oil, for cooking
• 8 slices  Halloumi Cheese
• 12-16 cherry tomatoes
• Chiffonade of 6 basil leaves
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
• Viola olive oil, or another condiment grade olive oil for drizzling
• Kosher salt

Heat a small cast iron pan over medium heat. Lay watermelon slices on a plate in a whimsical pattern (or in a uniform one if you like that). Season with kosher salt. Add oil and tomatoes to the cast iron; roll tomatoes around the pan every two minutes or so until sides begin to brown and skins burst. Remove to a small bowl to cool slightly. While tomatoes are cooling, lay 4 slices of Halloumi Cheese on the cast iron pan, letting brown for about one minute before flipping. Remove halloumi, and lay over watermelon slices. Scatter cherry tomatoes across the plate, sprinkle with basil and mint. Add more salt if desired, and finish with a good drizzle of condiment oil. Serve immediately.

Creminelli Fine Meats are a staple in our meat counter for a reason. These precious pieces of meat gold are made in the Old World Italian style, hand-tied, and cured to perfection. The recipes are produced here in Salt Lake by salumi royalty and use pork from family farms that operate on a small scale and raise their pigs the way pigs should live: with pasture access (pigs are creatures of comfort and like to be warm when it’s cold, cool when it’s hot, so they like shelter), in proper social structures (i.e. with their families and social groups), good vegetarian feed (not industrial detritus); and never ever treated with antibiotics.

These great sticks of joy can be used as a centerpiece on any artisan charcuterie board, tossed quickly on top of Neapolitan style pizza, or diced up in a ten minute pasta like my Aglio E Olio recipe. Truth be told I was going to make pizza, had the dough all beautiful and plump, sauce balling out. Then my oven broke. No lie. Game-changing anger. Two choices boiled in my brainstomach: Eat the salami all sad and alone on a cutting board, or open the pantry doors and dig for a meal. Super simple, easy and affordable.

Aglio E Olio with Creminelli Salumi 

• 1 lb. of pasta (any kind, but longer cut is the classic Campanian approach)
• 4-6 cloves of minced garlic
• 1/2 a cup of extra virgin olive oil
• A grip of parsley (1/4 cup minced up)
• 1/2-1 teaspoon of red pepper flakes
• Salt and pepper for tasting
• 1 stick of Creminelli Campania salami (any Creminelli salami will do, I just like the juxtaposition of spice and smoke with this style)
• 1 cup of grated 2-year Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Bring a large pot of lightly-salted water to a boil. Cook pasta in the boiling water, stirring occasionally until cooked al dente, about 10-12 minutes. Drain and transfer to a pasta bowl when ready. While pasta is boiling, combine garlic and olive oil in a skillet. Cook over medium heat to slowly toast garlic for about 10 minutes. Lower heat to medium-low when olive oil begins to bubble. Cook and stir until garlic is slightly brown, about another 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Peel the salami from it’s natural casing and cut into small pieces. Stir the salami, red pepper flakes, black pepper, and salt into the pasta. Pour in olive oil and garlic, and sprinkle on Italian parsley and half of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Stir and toss, and stir and toss. Serve pasta topped with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

That point in the summer has arrived. IT’S TOO HOT. My legs stick to any surface I sit on, I’ve melted numerous lip balms and plastic cups left in my car, and I have to keep a close eye on my roommate’s air conditioning habits, that power isn’t gonna pay itself.

Oppressive heat calls for icy luxury. This week, that luxury comes to us by way of Luxardo cherries and you nearest freezer. You may recall a recent fennel pollen semifreddo and my argument for making this every day. But really, semifreddo is the ultimate easy dessert.

Whip cream, whisk eggs with additional ingredients, combine, and freeze. There, done. It’s almost too easy.

My pal and fellow class instructor, Evan, and I decided it was high time we rally the Caputo’s troops from all locations for a fun, food-oriented gathering. We love these monthly Cravings and wanted to share that with our fellow cheesemongers and deli co-workers, so we pulled a few cocktails and cheese samples together to learn about, discuss, and enjoy.

I wanted to make something special to add to the lineup. Luxardo semifreddo, duhhhhh.

I couldn’t stop there. I wanted to incorporate a fun play on neapolitan ice cream by adding a chocolate and mascarpone component as well. The Luxardo semifreddo was fantastic, but sandwiching it between two other semifreddi made it even more so.

We nibbled and snacked. We sipped and laughed. And then we ate semifreddo. LOTS of semifreddo.

You can make yours and keep them frozen for up to a week without compromising flavor. So I say make a giant batch to cool off and keep your heat-induced impatience in check. It’s worked for me all season. Enjoy!

Luxardo Cherry Semifreddo
Serves 10

• 1 egg
• 4 egg yolks
• 1/3 cup Luxardo Cherries, roughly chopped
• 3 tablespoons Luxardo cherry syrup, poured off from the whole Luxardo cherries
• 1 ½ cups cream

Line a medium loaf tin with plastic film. Beat the cherry syrup, egg, and egg yolks with the honey in a bowl until pale and thick. Whip the cream until it has thickened and doubled in volume. Fold in the egg and cherry juice mixture and pour into the loaf tin. Wrap in plastic and freeze for 3 hours. Remove the semifreddo and fold in the chopped cherries. Cover again and continue to freeze for an additional 2 hours or overnight.

When ready to serve, invert the semifreddo onto a serving platter and drizzle with extra Luxardo syrup or more cherries. Serve slices immediately.

(For chocolate or mascarpone semifreddo, substitute cherry components for melted dark chocolate or mascarpone. You’ll also want to add 1/4 cup sugar when mixing with the egg yolks.)

Remember how I said I usually buy too much from the farmers markets on Saturdays? Yeah, I did it again. It all just looks too tasty, am I right?!

I arrived home this week with an overstuffed canvas bag…or two. This week’s bounty included lots of different greens, blueberries, raspberries, figs, garlic scapes, hummus, peas, lavender, fava beans, and ginger beer. After happy dancing all over my kitchen, I began creating menus for myself and my friends. When there are so many greens to choose from, I like to make the almighty market salad. I can throw just about everything in there, and it’s delicious everytime. The secret? Seasoned greens and sherry vinaigrette.

I think it’s the Italian matriarch hiding deep in my soul who feels the need to accompany any meal with some sort of starch. I don’t mind just a salad for myself any night, but I always feel the need to provide a bread of sorts to sit alongside a salad when I have company. There was a decent sized chunk of Red Leicester sitting pretty in the fridge, so I had no choice but to make cheesy popovers.

I love popovers for their texture and easy preparation. Light, airy, hollowed rolls rise straight up out of their individual tins in the oven and maintain their shape after cooling. Its simple batter lends itself to both sweet and savory options, and the additions are infinite. Don’t bother buying dedicated popover tins, especially if this is your first try. Muffin tins are perfectly fine.

This is a great recipe to keep in your back pocket as they come together quickly and sit well next to any sort of combination of foods. I love bringing these along to barebecues and potlucks.

Red Leicester Popovers
Makes 8-10

• 1 cup all purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
• 1 cup whole milk
• 2 large eggs
• Olive oil
• 3/4 cups grated Red Leicester cheese

Preheat a 12-cup muffin pan in the oven at 350 degrees. Heat milk over medium heat until it reaches about 120 degrees.

Stir flour, salt, and thyme together in a medium bowl. Once milk is heated, whisk milk into the eggs in a small bowl. Stir milk mixture into the flour slowly, leaving small lumps at the end.

Working quickly, remove hot muffin pan and swipe each cup with a paper towel doused with olive oil. Add about 1/4 cup of batter to muffin cups and top each with a generous sprinkling of grated cheese. Bake until deep, golden brown, about 45 minutes. Remove from muffin tins while still warm.

We’re in the full swing of summer, and I couldn’t be more excited. I’ve opted for early Saturday mornings at the downtown farmer’s market in lieu of sleeping in, and it’s proven to be incredibly rewarding. I’ve missed seeing my favorite local farmer and purveyors of all things delicious since the winter market ended. For me, the market feels like one giant gathering of all my favorite people and all the yummy things they make. It doesn’t get much better than that—but in one way, it does.

When the market ends and the vendors close up, I’m left with heaping piles of produce, treats, snacks, and too many fresh flowers. The flowers are scattered across my home begging to be adored, and the food begs to prepared. I often buy just a tiny bit more than I myself can eat in the upcoming week, so I have to recruit some friends willing to help consume my market treasures. Thank goodness for my pals, they’re real martyrs for my market cause.

I love hosting Sunday brunches rather than meeting at restaurants (hint: Saturdays make for a much quieter brunch scene when you want to frequent your favorite spots). It’s easier, more casual, and I don’t have to wait until 11:30 for my first mimosa.

Last week, I got my hands on tons of lovely hardy green from Ranui, a new jar of Toum from Laziz, eggs from Clifford Family Farms, and an extra jar of Chili Beak in anticipation of running out of my then current supply. My final stop is always at Caputo’s for those little necessities like oil and butter, and, ya know, all of the other awesome things we carry.

But I stepped my game up this last weekend and snagged Delaware Fireball salami to really spice things up. Sunday is the Day of the Frittata, because duhhh. The custardy texture and adaptability of using nearly any ingredient make this a fresh and new kind of frittata each time I make it. If you’ve had frittata blunders in the past, here are my foolproof tricks to the perfect frittata:

-Use enough dairy. Pick your dairy of choice and stick to this simple ratio: 1/4 cup dairy for every 6 eggs. Milk, creme fraiche, yogurt, you name it. Go for it!
-Cast iron is your best friend. A heavy, well-seasoned pan lends itself to not-so-sticky eggs.
-Overcooking is the ultimate sin. Ain’t nobody got time for dry, chewy frittatas. Cook at 350 degrees and begin checking for a set center at 15 minutes.

Try that post-market home brunch out, I’m sure you’ll enjoy it as much as my pals and I have been these past few weeks!

Fireball Frittata
Serves 2-4

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 Delaware Fireball salami, roughly chopped
• 1 shallot, chopped
• 1 bunch greens (something like chard, kale, mustard, or dandelion)
• 1 tablespoon Laziz Toum
• 6 large eggs
• 1/4 cup whole milk
• 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• Salt, freshly ground pepper

Place a rack in upper third of oven; preheat to 350 degrees. Heat oil in an 8-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add Fireball; cook, stirring often, until browned and crispy, about 5-10 minutes. Add shallot and greens and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in toum.

Whisk eggs and milk in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium-high. Pour the egg mixture over the mushrooms, shaking the pan to evenly distribute mixture. Cook the frittata (NO STIRRING!), until the edges begin to set.

Sprinkle 1/2 the Parmigiano over eggs and transfer skillet to oven. Bake frittata until golden brown and center is set, 25-30 minutes. Garnish with remaining Parm and fresh herbs and Chili Beak on the side.

Last week, we wrapped up our annual Classic Cookbook Cooking Class Series last week as part of our ongoing cooking classes here. I love this series because it gives me a chance to revisit some of my favorite cookbooks from some of the world’s most influential chefs.

This year, we featured Marcella Hazan (because she’s my soulmate), James Beard, Alice Waters, and Thomas Keller. Keller is the only American chef to receive Michelin stars at two unique restaurants, Per Se and The French Laundry. Keller’s exquisite style of cooking is often intimidating and taking the plunge is often a scary endeavor. I don’t blame any of you who may feel this way, my feelings were the same. If I could make one suggestion to everyone embaraking on their first Keller cooking journey, it would be to prepare a mise en place.

mise en place
/miz en plas/
noun
1.(in a restaurant kitchen) the preparation of equipment and food before service begins

Preparing your ingredients and having all necessary kitchen equipment on hand ahead of time makes the experience much less stressful and more enjoyable. Aside from Keller’s fantastic recipes, he’s taught me the very useful habit of preparation. For this, I will be forever grateful, and much less stressed while cooking.

Another restaurant under the Keller umbrella is Ad Hoc, featuing a set menu served family style in a more casual, but equally delicious, environment. Ad Hoc’s broccolini salad is the perfect introduction to Keller’s way of cooking, plus it uses my very favorite summertime cheese, burrata. I love doubling or tripling this recipe and serving at barbeques and summer holiday parties. It has a lovely presentation and the flavors are a perfect compliment to grilled proteins. Go ahead, give this Keller recipe a try and see where you go from there. Enjoy!

Broccolini and Burrata Salad
Serves 4-6

• 1 pound broccolini, thick ends removed and remaining stems peeled slightly
• 3 large cremini mushrooms, stemmed and cleaned
• 1/2 cup Cerignola olives
• Kosher salt and fresh black pepper
• Burrata cheese
• Extra virgin olive oil

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt generously before adding broccolini. While water is coming to a boil, prepare a large bowl of ice water. When water boils, add the broccolini and blanch until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Submerge broccolini in bowl of ice water to stop the cooking, then drain and pat dry with paper towels.

Cut the mushroom caps into paper-thin slices. I used a sharp paring knife, but the book suggests that a Japanese mandoline also works well. Place in a small bowl.

Cut all four sides of each olive away from the pit in flat slices. Lay the slices flat-side-down and cut into thin slices.

Lay the broccolini in a single layer on a plate and drizzle with about 2 Tbsp. vinaigrette (whisk together 1 part sherry vinegar, 3 parts olive oil, salt, and pepper). Toss with your hands to coat. Sprinkle with additional salt or pepper if desired. Add 1 Tbsp. vinaigrette to the bowl with the mushrooms, and toss to coat, adding a bit more if needed. Move broccolini to serving platter and top with marinated mushrooms, then sliced olives.

Place the burrata in a small serving bowl. Using kitchen shears, cut a small X in the top of the burrata to expose the creamy center. Drizzle with a little olive oil and sprinkle with pepper. Add the bowl of burrata to the serving platter. Serve salad with tongs and a spoon for the burrata. Each person can top their own serving with the burrata.