Fall is a special time in the life cycle of plant life. Perennials gently nestle into hibernation while we kiss some of our favorite sweet annual plants goodbye. While it feels slightly sad, this is my favorite time for food as we move from light, crisp flavors to bigger, funky, fermenty ones.

Testun al Foglie di Castagno embodies the best of this cooling season. Cow, sheep, and goat milks are blended into large wheels and aged over a year in the Cuneo region of Piedmont by Beppino Occelli. We carry a handful of selections from this lovely artisan, but this one in particular has stolen my heart. The wheels are wrapped in freshly plucked chestnut leaves and left to continue its year-long aging journey. The result is a sweet, complex paste tinged brown by the oxidized plant matter it’s been snuggled into. Testun’s paste is both creamy and crunchy from crystallized bits of tyrosine while the aroma smells just like the bottom of the leaf pile waiting for you in your back yard. Don’t believe. Go on, dive in there and give it a whiff.

If you’re really lucky, you’ll be graced with small flecks of naturally ocurring blue mold growing just beneath the surface of the cheese. I live for these bits and will wait days for even a hint of blue. This added flavor tips the scales for flavor right up toward transcendence.

When you’re done diving into your leaves, treat yourself to a this lovely cheese. Pair it with bold, tannic red wines, whiskey, or Epic’s Smoked & Oaked beer, and a fireplace. This is the perfect time to enjoy this cheese and the season wanes into winter.

I have always said that I love my job at Caputo’s. And I’ve always said that’s it’s because of my endless capacity to learn about and adore cheese, chocolate, and the Old World traditions we support. I certainly do feel a deep passion for all those things, but I think I was wrong about why I have loved my job so much.

Caputo’s opened 18 years ago with a commitment to selling the best imported and locally-produced foods to Salt Lake City and beyond. I was obviously there then, and I’ve been working here since as long as I could lift boxes. But over the last seven years, I started taking on more and more significant responsibility from my dad. As the portions of the business in my hands grew, I started spending less time on the floor. That was less time working with cheese, less time with my dad, and less time with the crew of cheese mongers and sandwich slingers who I had grown to also think of as family—many were, and are.

Last year around this time of year, my dad (semi) retired. It’s taken me that long to realize it, but it actually wasn’t my love for food that made my job the best in the world. It was that I got to hang out with my dad all the time.

Don’t get me wrong, I have found new reasons to be passionate and certainly do better financially nowadays, but as I think about Father’s Day and Tony’s retirement, what I wouldn’t do to just sweep the floor while listening to my dad BS with customers again. Even if just for a week. It’s the small moments that make me proud. Proud to work here. Proud to be Tony’s son.

They always say that you never know what you have till it’s gone, and it’s true. Through all that ambition for our store, I wish I would have known to appreciate what was really going on.

Luckily, he’s only retired and still around and in good health. Now, I just need to find a new excuse to hang out with him so much. I know I’ll make it happen. It’s the rest of you I feel bad for. I am no replacement for Tony Caputo. In so many ways our place will never be the same. But we’ve all learned so much from Tony, and I think that’s the best thing a dad and a boss can do.

Happy Father’s Day, and Happy Retirement to my dad.

Last week, we wrapped up our annual Classic Cookbook Cooking Class Series last week as part of our ongoing cooking classes here. I love this series because it gives me a chance to revisit some of my favorite cookbooks from some of the world’s most influential chefs.

This year, we featured Marcella Hazan (because she’s my soulmate), James Beard, Alice Waters, and Thomas Keller. Keller is the only American chef to receive Michelin stars at two unique restaurants, Per Se and The French Laundry. Keller’s exquisite style of cooking is often intimidating and taking the plunge is often a scary endeavor. I don’t blame any of you who may feel this way, my feelings were the same. If I could make one suggestion to everyone embaraking on their first Keller cooking journey, it would be to prepare a mise en place.

mise en place
/miz en plas/
noun
1.(in a restaurant kitchen) the preparation of equipment and food before service begins

Preparing your ingredients and having all necessary kitchen equipment on hand ahead of time makes the experience much less stressful and more enjoyable. Aside from Keller’s fantastic recipes, he’s taught me the very useful habit of preparation. For this, I will be forever grateful, and much less stressed while cooking.

Another restaurant under the Keller umbrella is Ad Hoc, featuing a set menu served family style in a more casual, but equally delicious, environment. Ad Hoc’s broccolini salad is the perfect introduction to Keller’s way of cooking, plus it uses my very favorite summertime cheese, burrata. I love doubling or tripling this recipe and serving at barbeques and summer holiday parties. It has a lovely presentation and the flavors are a perfect compliment to grilled proteins. Go ahead, give this Keller recipe a try and see where you go from there. Enjoy!

Broccolini and Burrata Salad
Serves 4-6

• 1 pound broccolini, thick ends removed and remaining stems peeled slightly
• 3 large cremini mushrooms, stemmed and cleaned
• 1/2 cup Cerignola olives
• Kosher salt and fresh black pepper
• Burrata cheese
• Extra virgin olive oil

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt generously before adding broccolini. While water is coming to a boil, prepare a large bowl of ice water. When water boils, add the broccolini and blanch until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Submerge broccolini in bowl of ice water to stop the cooking, then drain and pat dry with paper towels.

Cut the mushroom caps into paper-thin slices. I used a sharp paring knife, but the book suggests that a Japanese mandoline also works well. Place in a small bowl.

Cut all four sides of each olive away from the pit in flat slices. Lay the slices flat-side-down and cut into thin slices.

Lay the broccolini in a single layer on a plate and drizzle with about 2 Tbsp. vinaigrette (whisk together 1 part sherry vinegar, 3 parts olive oil, salt, and pepper). Toss with your hands to coat. Sprinkle with additional salt or pepper if desired. Add 1 Tbsp. vinaigrette to the bowl with the mushrooms, and toss to coat, adding a bit more if needed. Move broccolini to serving platter and top with marinated mushrooms, then sliced olives.

Place the burrata in a small serving bowl. Using kitchen shears, cut a small X in the top of the burrata to expose the creamy center. Drizzle with a little olive oil and sprinkle with pepper. Add the bowl of burrata to the serving platter. Serve salad with tongs and a spoon for the burrata. Each person can top their own serving with the burrata.

A great moment of appreciating my job came recently when I was discussing cheese with some of the cheese nerds on my staff. I then realized that Caputo’s Downtown’s staff has re-entered a Golden Age of Great Cheese Geekery, which brings me no end of pleasure.

Don’t get me wrong, we always have a lot of cheese lovers on the crew, but not like this—this is a group that really cares about the quality of the cheese we serve and enjoys it in their own homes often, as well. Understand, when you have managed a small business as long as I have, staff can begin to feel cyclical, as generation of crews change you get different personalities, approaches, and interests within the different goods we sell. Well, the wheel has turned, because we now again are in a moment of unsurpassed, unabashed cheese love.

The cheese prompting this heart-swelling conversation is a recent arrival from one of our favorite dairies, Quickes, from Devonshire, England. For years, my favorite cheddar that we have carried has been the Quickes Farmhouse Cheddar (this is probably the only only thing I have in common with the Queen of England). Well, Quickes makes more than just this flagship cheddar.

Quickes also makes another classic English-style cheese: red leicester. This cow’s milk cheese is stylistically very similar to cheddar. It uses raw cow’s milk and is bandage wrapped, etc. However, red leicester is dyed with with annatto extract, a coloring agent derived from the fruit of the annatto tree which hails from the Caribbean. Quickes ages their red leicester for for to eight months.

Quickes red leicester, which is produced by hand, displays rich creaminess from the raw milk, as well as Quickes characteristic grassy excellence, due to the lush grasses upon which their heritage breed cows graze. Less sharp and a little sweeter than their classic cheddar, red leicester is an exciting addition to our cheese selection. And we are all nerding out about this cheese around here, which makes it a good time to shop at Caputo’s.

Quickes red leicester is also part of our June Cravings, read more here. 

May is the start for my favorite time of year. Warm weather, spring cleaning, sundresses, barbecues, pitchers of icy cocktails, and lots of shared meals. The warm days are still tempered by cool nights, and the first blooms of spring have now sprung. Here’s the list of goodies and treats we’re enjoying to help us welcome the month ahead:

CHEESE: Leonora

Yep, this should look familiar. We highlighted Leonora last month, but we can’t quit this baby. Read what we had to say last month below. This month you can expect a few quick recipes and even more cheese love from your favorite SLC cheese mongers.

If you’ve visited any of our stores recently—namely downtown—there may have been an incredibly eager cheese monger or two nearly force-feeding you a sample of this little beauty. What you’re experiencing is cheese geekiness in its more exuberant, pure form. Leonora was an all-star, staff favorite years ago at Caputo’s. We lost it for a long period. All of a sudden this winter, it was back, gracing our cases and palettes with its acidic perfection. This log of pure goat’s milk cheese from Leon, Spain, has an intense acidity in its flaky, dry interior, but balances itself with a cream line just beneath its thin rind that makes it its own best friend. Wanna guess what I like to pair with Leonora? More Leonora. If that’s an unacceptable answer, then I’d say white wine. All the white wine, to be exact. Stay tuned for musings from Evan, and make sure to come by for a taste of this cheese. It’s a knockout. But be warned, no one has ever loved Leonora more than Evan.

CHOCOLATE: Ritual Ecuador 85%

It’s true, Ritual is now local! Its lovely chocolate factory and cafe is now open minutes from the historic downtown Park City neighborhood for you noshing pleasure. Check them out the next you visit Park City, but don’t forget you can still get all of their amazing bars at each of our Caputo’s locations. We’re often not as fond of chocolate that has more than 75% cacao content (cacao really blossoms with the addition of sugar) but this 85% bar from Balao, Ecuador, has us rethinking what it means to be really dark and really good. The surprising sweetness offered by this high percentage bar is a pleasant surprise, making it both easy to eat and incredibly flavorful.

Added bonus: This high percentage bar is all cacao. It’s not a 75% bar with added cocoa butter to raise the percentage, which speaks to the true craftsmanship and artisanal element of all things Ritual. You’ll notice when trying a Ritual bar that there is an exquisite snap on your first bite and silky smooth mouthfeel, all due to long conch and attention to detail—down to the microscopic proportions. What’s more, a higher percentage of cacao, especially with brands like Ritual with no addition of cocoa butter, make this an easy choice for ice creams and semifreddo applications. Higher cacao content = deeper chocolate flavor. Milk powder and extra sugar often hinder my attempts at extremely flavorful frozen chocolate treats, but the key lies in percentage. Make your own batch of ice cream or semifreddo and see what I mean—you won’t regret it.

SAVORY: Chili Beak
For me, this is not a craving, this is a straight up addiction. I. Can’t. Stop. That said, this should be on your list for new local products, and it deserves a great deal of attention. Picture this: You’re in the middle of devouring one of your favorite entrees and realize it could really benefit from a little extra spiciness. Vinegar-based hot sauces often take over any dish they’re dashed onto, and you end up with a mouthful of acidity and a lingering, odd heat from who-knows-what-kind of pepper. Not anymore, friends, not anymore!

Chili Beak is made with four ingredients: dried Mexican chilies, sunflower oil, garlic, and Utah salt. The result is a so-sexy-smooth oil-based hot sauce that lets the chilies do the talking. You get a slowly-developing heat that is made even more addicting by good seasoning. That missing acidic component from vinegar lets even the most delicate flavors of your original dish shine while still being able to enjoy the introduction of both heat and flavor. Crazy, right? I’ll provide plenty of recipe ideas in the weeks to come, but start off with my favorites ideas—simple add ons. Give your jar a loving stir, and drizzle over your morning eggs, mix into your favorite mayonnaise or aioli, and stir into your favorite hummus. You’ll find yourself reaching for this multiple times a day, and we don’t blame you, we’re doing the very same thing.

SWEET / DRINK: Bittermilk Charred Grapefruit Tonic

Meet your new secret ingredient for the easiest and most impressive home cocktails. Fans are singing praises for Bittermilk across the country, and the full line of Bittermilk has already been highlighted in the Wall Street Journal! Joe and MariElena Raya are the owners of Gin Joint in Charleston, South Carolina, and the makers of our newest all-natural cocktail go-to. Simply mix your Bittermilk of choice with a spirit and ice. Voilà: a cocktail, and an impressive one, too. Add a garnish if you insist, but how easy does that sound? No more muddling, peeling, and hunting for a whole shipping cart full of grocery items to serve your friends a delicious libation. You just need this lovely bottle and a quick jaunt to the liquor store.

With six fantastic concoctions, there’s an option for every spirit and every soul. Whiskey fans? They’ve got a few for you. Clear liquor only? Fret not, this Charred Grapefruit Tonic works with gin, vodka, AND rum. Try them all—we have. We’re currently digging this in particular because of its multiple uses; plus, spring feels like the perfect time for a fun spin on a the classic gin & tonic. We’re big fans, and we hope you’ll join the club.

Enjoy this lovely month of May, fellow Cravers. We cannot wait to help you find these at your local Caputo’s, so don’t be shy. We’ll guide you to your craving of choice, and send you on your way with a bounty of ideas on how to prepare them. I hope you’ll adore these cravings as much as we do!

While my friends are getting excited about the newest additions to their families, I’m excited to announce the newest addition to our cheese cave family: Greektown Blue. She’s a beauty, with a healthy weight and clean bill of health.

I’m going to stop the baby referencing now before things start to sound morbid. I mean, we are going to eat the cheese, after all.

Cheese Cave #2 is nearing completion!

Our first wheel of Greektown was released earlier this week after a four month long stint in our cheese cave. What I find most exciting about this cheese is the fun, geeky process of how it came to be. As we continue the process of developing our first house-aged blue cheese, the flavors will become more consistent and the process will become more rigorous and thorough. I spent a few minutes with our affineuse, Antonia, today to talk about the first wheel. Antonia will be releasing more in-depth information about this cheese very soon, but we just couldn’t wait to share it with you.

Antonia has been a busy, busy woman these days. Not only does she care for each wheel of cheese individually, she is also the master behind our house-made burrata while also helping to plan the build out of our second cheese cave. Yes, you read that right. Second cheese cave. We’re nearing the end of construction on cheese cave #2 to give us more space to continue our Basque reserve cheeses, Grotte Caputo cheese, and make way for even more delicious projects and releases. You’ll be seeing many more posts like this as soon as the space becomes available and ready to house all these magnificent cheeses. Speaking of cheese, let’s get back to the blue.

Through all of this craziness, Antonia was still able to pull off aging a fantastic blue cheese. I love a blue cheese this time of year, it suits my seasonal needs and is just the thing I want to snack on with a glass of wine after work.

Our first blue cheese comes to us from a farm near and dear to our hearts, Mesa Farm. Randy and his small herd of well-loved goats from Torrey, Utah send Antonia freshly formed wheels of raw goat cheese made with a feta-like starter culture. Antonia takes over from there, first by rubbing the wheel down with goat butter, salting it with local salt, and then spending time caring for it, taking notes on its progress, and helping develop it into the delicious wheel it is today. Each wheel is pierced upon entry to the cave and left to self-inoculate from there. The wheels are exposed to Antonia and I called a ‘blend o’ spores’ including (but not necessarily limited to) penicillium roqueforti, penicillium galucum, b-linens, and a host of other fun spores flying around the cave.

Flash forward four months to the release. We have a lovely wheel with a thin, skin-like rind reminiscent of a French rindless blue cheese. The loosely pressed curd that was originally full of air pockets are now tiny caverns that are home to delicious blue and green hued molds. We’re pretty much already in love. The best part is, it’s only going to get better. I love to see the process from the outside. Seeing Antonia and Matt collaborate on ways to improve flavor, experiment with different techniques, and, ultimately, make delicious cheese is one of my favorite parts of Caputo’s. A close second is always learning the names of our newest releases.

This one is perfect. The name pays homage to both farm, community, and family. Randy’s feta starters and light brining before sending wheels our way helped lead us toward a Greek inspired name. This lovely, developing community that is home to our downtown location is Salt Lake’s historical Greek community. With Holy Trinity across the street and their annual Greek Fest, it’s only fitting that we honor the roots of the cheese and our neighborhood. We can’t leave out Matt’s maternal Greek heritage, either. We have a lot to thank Greece for, this is our way of saying just that.

Come try this first wheel before it’s too late. Like I said, the most exciting part of these new cheese releases is the evolution from wheel to wheel. Taste your way through each release with us, you won’t regret it. We’re already hooked.

It has been a long time since I have personally written a blog post. I wish I had more time, but with our recent growth I have been too buried to justify time to write. However, few things send jolt me to attention like two new chocolate bars from Chocolate Naïve — made in a little town on the Eastern side of Lithuania.

Here’s how it happened.

I was sitting down with another unrelated chocolate maker tasting through a bunch of new bars while being filmed for a chocolate documentary. Throughout the tasting we were enjoying or not enjoying things as much or as little as might be expected. However, shortly after we popped our first bite of Naïve’s Chuao and Porcini bars, I gasped in ecstasy then involuntarily made guttural exclamations of awe and disbelief.

At the exact same time the other chocolate maker expressed his first compliments of the day. I knew instantly something incredibly great was sitting before me. Although Chuao is more commonly accompanied by a balancing amount of vanilla, Naïve’s rendition has none. I appreciated this rare opportunity to delve into the aromas intrinsic to raw Chuao beans that always remind me of horse blanket. Other aromas like, fine cigars, campfire, perfumed woods, toasted marshmallow, black currants and molasses are harder to pinpoint if you’re not really trying, but certainly make for one profound flavor journey either way.

Sure the Chuao bar has a far from silky texture, but one should not look a gift Chuao in the mouth. Instead, a jaded connoisseur should appreciate this visceral glimpse into the soul of this prized jewel of the rain forest.

The Porcini bar is even more of a surprise given I did not expect to like it. Porcini is not the most hip ingredient and it seems that inclusion bars (bars with non-cacao ingredients) these days have to have super trendy flavors added to them to get attention. Also, inclusion bars with mushrooms normally highlight the mushroom and the chocolate is an afterthought. Not the case here. The origin is completely clear and the Porcini add depth and nuance to an extent that truly is still freaking me out.

I have a lot more to say about the ethos surrounding Chocolate Naïve, but that will have to wait for another time. Until then, make sure you get them quickly “Limited Edition” means limited edition with Naïve and both of these bars will be gone soon.