In some ways, things went back to normal after Goat Camp. In other ways, things haven’t been the same. The light had changed, maybe. Or maybe I had changed, but things certainly felt different.
Walking back in to Caputo’s two days after spending time with Randy at Mesa farm and one day after Hell’s Backbone and Ruth Lewandowski was exciting to say the least. I pressed my nose against the glass wall of the cheese cave and admired the rows of Mesa Tome and Barely Legal. There they sat, just as they had the week before we left. Now though, having been where they originated, it felt so much more incredible to see them sitting patiently in cave, taking on bacteria, flavor, and nuance. The mist from the humidifiers created halos around each wheel; they looked saintly as they were anointed with moisture. The light had surely changed, right? Had they always looked this angelic? I couldn’t wait to try these wheels, but, it would be days before the next release of Mesa Tome would emerge from the caves and even longer for Barely Legal. I walked by the caves every day, watching Antonia inspect and apply her love to each wheel, impatiently waiting for them to be removed.
In the coming days, Mesa Tome was released into the hands of many devoted chefs, cheese geeks, and new cheese friends. Each batch changed in flavor based on what was growing near Randy’s farm and being able to experience that has been so special. I’d seen where the goats would graze freely, where they were milked, and where Randy deftly created each wheel of cheese. Now, weeks later, seeing, cutting into, and tasting each batch felt ceremonial.


As part of the branding Caputo’s has been working on, the darlings of the cheese cave got a little piece of the makeover. Mesa Tome and Barely Legal are part of the Caputo’s Cheese Cave program and are sporting new, uber cool threads to prove it. Dan Christofferson took Matt’s vision of the future and his fierce protective nature of the past and wrapped these wheels in a visual expression of just that. Each wheel now feels like a work of art and something worthy of honoring both past tradition and future successes. We at Caputo’s can’t help but gush over the beautiful labels and place them on each piece with just as much care as all the other hands that made these cheeses what they are. In a way, it feels like we’ve completed the cycle.
You’ll see these cheeses all over the valley. The Rose Establishment has a cheese plate that was born from Cori’s brilliant mind and participation in Goat Camp. It’s on composed salads and nestled into other cheese plates and at almost every class I teach. Find it in a spotlight at Pago, Provisions, Lake Effect, and Cafe Trio Park City. The list will grow, ebb, and flow and it will be because of Randy, Matt, and all of us who take food to heart.
This is the kind of food that brings the most beloved people in our lives around a table and binds us together. A shared meal is one of the most important parts of humanity, this is the tradition that precedes written history and I pray to God it outlives every one of us. When we can no longer gather to eat, we are no longer part of civilization. When I think of my fondest memories, a large amount of them included a shared meal with people that have impacted my life. The food may not have always been the most memorable part, but it was the ritual of sharing a meal that brought these people together in those moments. The laughter, tears, stories, and profound relationships may not have ever existed without first breaking bread. And when the food has been memorable, it’s only made the rest of the memory more vivid.
I will make a place at my table for the people I hold dear and the food I most adore. We will always gather, and there will always be food. All will be welcome, because that’s the Caputo way.
***In 2023, Randy of Mesa Farm entered his beautifully earned retirement. The farm and its singular cheeses will live on in our hearts and stories for years to come.***
Part 4 of 4. Go back to Part 3: Lewandowski Wines
Goat Camp 2017 Crew

Evan led us out of Hell’s Backbone Farm, across another plot of land, over a fence, up a hill, and then into the sunshine atop an Eastward(ish) facing hill. We Goat Campers gathered as close as the warm afternoon sun would allow us to hear Evan’s story of how he came to arrive on this hill and what lies ahead for him. As we listened, the sun dipped further behind us and extended a welcome shadow over the now un-planted land. Soon though, this will change.
Five years and six wines after the first release of Mahlon, I was standing behind Evan on that hill in Boulder. Since the inception of Ruth Lewandowski, the goal has always been to make wine in Utah from Utah grown fruit. Wine is not the kind of industry that is kind to newborn labels and makers. The means required to achieve such a lofty goal take many years (five-ish) and an unfathomable amount of work. But, Boulder is a place where dreams come true and hard work is rewarded with a bounty of support and serendipitous circumstances. On that hill, not a mile from our Hell’s Backbone farm, a dream became destined to become truth and reality. Vines will be planted on that hill in the coming years and our little group had the very humble honor of being the first people to see it with Evan. Ruth Lewandowski will make a home in Boulder, Utah alongside the ladies of Hell’s Backbone legend and all the other kind inhabitants of this beloved town.
Though we are but a small market for wine compared to the booming cities along the East and West coasts, there is a seat at the table for every producer, especially a local one. New perspectives often challenge what we once knew as ‘good’ and ‘right’. This is no different. Yes, there is more than one way to make wine taste good. Yes, winemakers can choose whether or not to add yeasts and other ingredients to wine. No, one way is not more right than the other. Yes, we can enjoy wines made both ways. And you know what’s great about that? We can disagree and have have fond affections for different wine, and I will still respect you (yes, you), your palette, and your right to drink whichever wine makes you happiest. Each wine has its own story, from the people behind the bottle to the work that’s gone into it all the way to us, the consumer. The beautiful thing about it all is that each of us affects the other, which is always something for the consumer to consider; what we purchase affects both our local and national wine industry and this power is, perhaps, just as impactful as anyone else involved. I will simply ask that you consider the people behind the bottle, the work that’s gone into it, and how your purchasing power affects both our local and national wine industry.
Our group departed along different roads: one through the heart of Capitol Reef National Monument, the other along Notom Road filled with winding backroads and breathtaking beauty. When just the 60 mile journey is enough to impart wonder and appreciation for our little state, we’re living in the right place. We reconvened at Hell’s Backbone Farm for a tour and discussion on sustainability in the restaurant, on the farm, and the implications for the surrounding area. Blake led us through the 6.5 acres of farmland while sharing the history of all things Hell’s Backbone, past and current challenges, and its bright future. Blake’s peace and joy were infectious, the staff was the same. I’d always known farming was not as easy a planting a seed and only returning to harvest, but this became more clear while hearing about both the challenges and small victories they face daily. Though these challenges are certainly not without success. I mean, they harvested over 18,000 pounds of produce in the 2014 season. More astounding than the weight of harvest is that they used all 18,000 pounds at their restaurant. Sustainability is often a fluid, sometimes abused, term in our industry. The Hell’s Backbone team is the most true and honest example of what it means to live and work sustainably. All food waste from the restaurant is composted and fed back to the farm, any excess produce is preserved for the winter season, and anything beyond that even get turned over to feed their flock of chickens. After discussing the idiosyncrasies of growing asparagus, we were feasting upon it at the grill not four hours later as part of a meal that left us all with full heart and bellies.
We took a walk to another future farm after visiting the Hell’s Backbone Farm (more on that later), and regrouped for dinner at the Grill. The restaurant team was in the middle of launching a new cocktail program during our visit. Convenient, right? We spent happy hour on the patio of the restaurant reflecting on our visit, sharing ideas for new recipes, planning our next visit back, or maybe just never leaving. The cocktails were balanced and delicious and the perfect way to begin our experience at the restaurant. What came next was transcendent. I’m quite positive there has never been a more satisfying meal ever served in all of Southern Utah. Salads and vegetables and soups and proteins arrived in waves. I still get teary eyed at the thought of the sunchoke soup, but each dish was as good as that. Well seasoned, perfectly cooked, made with love.
Blake and Jen are shining examples of what happens when love and kindness intersect with food. Quality is a natural priority because honoring the integrity of land and animal existed from the very beginning. Everything at Hell’s Backbone feels warm and inviting, it tastes delicious and comforting, and it left us inspired and full.
In a humble farm market store, over nibbles of Randy’s cheeses and fresh coffee, I, and many others, rediscovered why we do what we do. Matt has always said it best – we don’t work in specialty food because we want to be millionaires; we do it because we have a love for food, with its cultural and historical implications, and we have to protect that. Randy’s cheeses are as excellent as they are because Randy is committed to creating them from the very best beginnings. His herd – which is now at 38 lovely little goat ladies- graze freely on the banks of the Fremont river. During the winter, their diets are supplemented with a much higher quality feed than industry standard; in fact, it’s organically grown specifically for Randy’s herd by his neighbors. That doesn’t come cheap. Even more surprising than their feeding practices was learning that Randy only milks during the natural cycle. As winter comes and the babes begin grazing themselves, Randy does not give the goats any kind of hormone to lengthen the milking. When they dry up, he closes up shop until the next spring. This is so uncommon and nearly unheard of in modern day cheese production, even for most artisan cheese production.
Since Randy doesn’t cut corners (or costs): we receive the kind of quality cheeses people write poems and love stories about. Whether it’s one of our cave-aged cheeses, chevre, or feta, the taste is unlike any other cheeses we carry. There’s true Utah terroir buried deep within the paste of each cheese because that’s where it came from. From the natural grasses and plants nourished by the Fremont river to the buckets of milk separated into curds and whey, something truly magical happens. Add expert cave aging to the mix from the loving, deft hands of our own affineuse, Antonia Horne, and suddenly, it’s like nothing else matters and no cheese ever existed before this one.
With all this beautiful imagery and romanticism, I almost forgot Randy was facing closure of his farm before our partnership. It wasn’t until Caputo’s and our customers began purchasing and raving about the cheeses that things started looking up. This year,
Heartbreak aside, hope exists. Hope exists at 



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